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recommendations up to 5.5 at the Gunks please

Original Post
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I passed through New Paltz some weeks back. I picked up The Climber's Guide by Dick Williams at Rock and Snow to thumb through and plan a couple days out. I saw some routes I might be able to do so I might head up there soon. I've never been anywhere but Peterskill so I was hoping you guys would help me out and answer some questions.

First off, I plan to go during the week. I wanna avoid conflict and crowds. Will it be easy to navigate around using Mr Williams book? Looking at the cliffs from the road it seems pretty clear what's where. Anything special I should know being it's my first time? Can I ask these questions at Rock and Snow?

Next, Route suggestions. Regular Route on CPS, Tilman's, Shipton's Afternoon Delight, Jugs of Beer and 3.2 are all stuff I like to lead up in the Dacks. I feel safe and comfortable climbing those. I'm looking for a list of routes like the ones above. I could work on maybe something like the first pitch of Tilman's at first up to something like Afternoon Delight.

Thanks for any help.

christopher adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0
Bill Kirby wrote: I passed through New Paltz some weeks back. I picked up The Climber's Guide by Dick Williams at Rock and Snow to thumb through and plan a couple days out. I saw some routes I might be able to do so I might head up there soon. I've never been anywhere but Peterskill so I was hoping you guys would help me out and answer some questions. First off, I plan to go during the week. I wanna avoid conflict and crowds. Will it be easy to navigate around using Mr Williams book? Looking at the cliffs from the road it seems pretty clear what's where. Anything special I should know being it's my first time? Can I ask these questions at Rock and Snow? Next, Route suggestions. Regular Route on CPS, Tilman's, Shipton's Afternoon Delight, Jugs of Beer and 3.2 are all stuff I like to lead up in the Dacks. I feel safe and comfortable climbing those. I'm looking for a list of routes like the ones above. I could work on maybe something like the first pitch of Tilman's at first up to something like Afternoon Delight. Thanks for any help.
Whatever you do, avoid easy keyhole.

Horsemans, Gelsa, Fingerlocks or Cedarbox, Three pines, Sixish, Squiggles.
matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

If you are looking for moderate stuff, you definitely came to the right place. There are tons moderate stuff there and its soo much fun.

You are smart to go midweek, weekends are a zoo.

When you are picking your routes, just be aware that the gunks stuff seems really sandbagged until you get used to the climbing there. When I first started climbing there I just added two to the rating in the guide book and it felt the grade. So if the guide book says 5.6, it felt like a 5.8.

There are a ton of climbs there right next to each other, I found it helpful to look at MP pictures to be able to identify key climbs to use as landmarks. Have

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

Mid week is the way to go, especially over the summer, when even then the multi star classics at the moderate or 5.easy grades will be crowded.

That said, I've climbed there 2x this summer on the weekend, never been on a route with another party. I think the worst part of weekends is parking, and walking the carriage road past the Uberfall.

Anyway, recommended routes using Swain guide ratings (or my memory).

5.2 Casa Emilio (also a 5.5V for this)
5.2 Easy V
5.3 Little White Mushroom
5.3 Beginners Delight
5.3 Three Pines
5.3 Minty (tipsy trees, etc)
5.4 Yum Yum Yab Yum
5.4 Long Walk for Man (actually a good climb, and I promise no crowds)
5.4 Andrew
5.4 Bunny
5.5 Jackie
5.5 Dennis
5.5 Finger Locks to any 2nd pitch on the Guides wall
5.5 Arch
5.5 Red Pillar

That should get you started.

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

Why the hate for easy keyhole? I've even done pitch 2 of it.

Oh, and I agree about Boston. I was going to add it but unless you have a #5 friend (which just barely protects it) it's a spicy lead. I bought a #5 friend just to lead it, used it 2x in a decade.

Gail Blauer · · Gardiner, NY · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,051
J. Serpico wrote:Mid week is the way to go, especially over the summer, when even then the multi star classics at the moderate or 5.easy grades will be crowded. That said, I've climbed there 2x this summer on the weekend, never been on a route with another party. I think the worst part of weekends is parking, and walking the carriage road past the Uberfall. Anyway, recommended routes using Swain guide ratings (or my memory). 5.2 Casa Emilio (also a 5.5V for this) 5.2 Easy V 5.3 Little White Mushroom 5.3 Beginners Delight 5.3 Three Pines 5.3 Minty (tipsy trees, etc) 5.4 Yum Yum Yab Yum 5.4 Long Walk for Man (actually a good climb, and I promise no crowds) 5.4 Andrew 5.4 Bunny 5.5 Jackie 5.5 Dennis 5.5 Finger Locks to any 2nd pitch on the Guides wall 5.5 Arch 5.5 Red Pillar That should get you started.
Great list!

I would also add No Picnic 5.5, RMC (all pitches) 5.5, all pitches of Jackie, Dennis, Belly Roll (go in on your back, it's so much easier than your belly).

Comments on the list above:
Beginners Delight is great fun, but, it has route finding. So, if you are not good at route finding, you may be more challenged.

Ditto Yum Yum Yab Yum. By the way the left exit on the last pitch of YYYY is an exposed hoot.

I really liked Long walk for man, it's a great climb and you will be all by yourself.

Red Pillar can be a bit necky on P2 (or p1/p2 combined). The last pitch is great!

Andrew is also a tricky 5.4. There is route finding and a traverse on less than stellar rock/holds.

Minty is very fun, has a devious little start.

There are a ton of 5.easy in the far Nears. You can set up TR on harder climbs by climbing the first pitches (For example: Punch and Judy, you can set up several 5.7-5.8 climbs) If you want moderate climbs that enable you to set up TR on harder climbs:
1) Black Fly 5.5 sets up "that nice 9"
2) No Picnic 5.5 sets up Shit or Go Blind 5.8 and a 5.10 variation
3) Scramble up the gerdie block (around the left side) and set up several 5.8's, 9's and 10's.

If you are feeling good and decide to do some 6's I would suggest:
Disneyland (I couldn't find the 6 crux on this, feels pretty soft to me)
Pulling the roof on Bunny, it's very well protected
High E
Snake
Madame G's
The Last will be First
Credibility Gap (holy cow...quite the pitch)
Moonlight (p2 not well protected and can be tricky for taller climbers)
William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

Matt C. said: I found it helpful to look at MP pictures to be able to identify key climbs to use as landmarks.

+1. The Gunks can be a bit difficult at first to locate the bases of the routes. Dont be afraid to ask others what route they're on so you can gain your bearings.

My all time favorite Gunks 5.5 is Layback (Fritz Weissner route) and I reccomend getting on it. However there are so many moderates and below at the Gunks (Trapps and Near Trapps especially) that you wont have enough time to experience even a quarter of the classics!

Just go and have some fun! Its a great place to climb and get some exposure.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526
Bill Kirby wrote: Will it be easy to navigate around using Mr Williams book? Looking at the cliffs from the road it seems pretty clear what's where. Anything special I should know being it's my first time? Can I ask these questions at Rock and Snow?
You'll want to park at the West Trapps Lot, which is location #2 on mohonkpreserve.org/sites/de… . You've driven past it before on your way to Peterskill. The day fee is $17, annual membership is $95.

The Williams Guides are as good as you can hope for, but the trees block the view of the cliff from the Carriage Road, so you should expect to do some "exploring." There are graphics in the guide to help you figure out where you are on the Carriage Road relative to the climbs on the cliff above.

Climbs in the Gunks do not necessarily follow clearly-defined features, and sometimes there are multiple options, not all of which are going to be at the grade you signed up for. For this reason, it is a good idea to carry the guidebook up with you, even though the climbs are of course short.

You can definitely talk to the folks at Rock and Snow. Most of them are very knowledgeable about the climbing scene.

Bill Kirby wrote: Next, Route suggestions. Regular Route on CPS, Tilman's, Shipton's Afternoon Delight, Jugs of Beer and 3.2 are all stuff I like to lead up in the Dacks. I feel safe and comfortable climbing those. I'm looking for a list of routes like the ones above. I could work on maybe something like the first pitch of Tilman's at first up to something like Afternoon Delight. Thanks for any help.
I'm going to let someone with knowledge of the routes you mentioned respond to that, while adding a warning. Whenever someone asks for route recommendations, there are two things you can expect. (1) Wait long enough and just about every route at the requested grade will be recommended by someone. So you're just as well or better off doing the highly-starred routes in the guidebook. (2) Folks just can't resist recommending routes harder than the level you requested, so get ready for a slew of 5.6's and 5.7's ya just gotta do.
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

Use the MP search tool and see what people have recommended in the database?

and Can I ask these questions at Rock and Snow? Yes

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Christopher, Matt, Jeese, J, Gail, Stoned and Brian, Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I drive by the Gunks alot on the way up to Keene. I've always wanted to stop and check it out but have been intimidated by the stories I've heard.

Ron, Some friends think I'm ready for 5.6-5.7. Guess we'll see.

Jeese.. A couple weeks ago it was 47 in Hague and 39 in Keene. I'm loving this weather! Just hope it's not -10 and bulletproof ice this winter.

Doug Meneke · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

I *TOTALLY* disagree with Morgan, whatever he says.

Yes, I'm just messing with him. Have a nice day!

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
Doug Meneke wrote:I *TOTALLY* disagree with Morgan, whatever he says. Yes, I'm just messing with him. Have a nice day!
Hehehehehe u gave me a good laugh this am Doug! thanks man!
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Morgan Patterson wrote:Use the MP search tool and see what people have recommended in the database? and Can I ask these questions at Rock and Snow? Yes
I typed in Gunks routes that are like Afternoon Delight and Tilmans Arete. The search came up with this thread. Thanks for your help.
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
Bill Kirby wrote: I typed in Gunks routes that are like Afternoon Delight and Tilmans Arete. The search came up with this thread. Thanks for your help.
lol... well thats the problem.. your searching the forums and not the route database ;-P
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Morgan Patterson wrote: lol... well thats the problem.. your searching the forums and not the route database ;-P
Got nothing that time. Thanks again.
christopher adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0
J. Serpico wrote:Why the hate for easy keyhole? I've even done pitch 2 of it. Oh, and I agree about Boston. I was going to add it but unless you have a #5 friend (which just barely protects it) it's a spicy lead. I bought a #5 friend just to lead it, used it 2x in a decade.
Easy keyhole is only 5.2 if you're wearing hiking boots big enough to jam for the first move, and if you time travel back to when the rock wasn't so polished. It's 20 times easier to start 15 feet to the right, climb up that face to the horizontal, and traverse in than do the bottom of that mess.

I guess the real reason I hate it is that I figured it would be a good climb for a newish friend of mine who was doing 5.8 in the gym.

I was wrong.
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
Bill Kirby wrote: Got nothing that time. Thanks again.
Huh? Navigate to the Traps area in the database, in the green box there's a link that says, BEST ROUTES FOR YOU, select that link, enter your criteria and you shld have like 20 or so highly recommend routes in the traps (if that's the criteria you choose)...

But you probably already knew this and are yankin my chain.. either way just in case this is the link:

Links
Caz Drach · · C'Wood, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

IDK why, but I always enjoy Asphodel.

-Z

Gail Blauer · · Gardiner, NY · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,051
D-Roc wrote:IDK why, but I always enjoy Asphodel. -Z
Funny, I have NEVER done that climb in all the years that I have been climbing at the Gunks. I will have to try it. Can you get off with one 70?
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Morgan Patterson wrote: Huh? Navigate to the Traps area in the database, in the green box there's a link that says, BEST ROUTES FOR YOU, select that link, enter your criteria and you shld have like 20 or so highly recommend routes in the traps (if that's the criteria you choose)... But you probably already knew this and are yankin my chain.. either way just in case this is the link:
Thank you for changing your post so as to be more polite. I tried the last link too. Nothing there the guidebook or the MPers haven't offered up. I'm looking for similar comparisons between the routes I've listed in the Dacks to routes in the Gunks. For example, Little Finger and Regular Route are both 5.5. I won't tell someone they could lead little finger just cause they did Regular Route.

Thanks again for all your help.
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
Bill Kirby wrote: Thank you for changing your post so as to be more polite.
sorry i didn't change it to be polite... just added an image, lol
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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