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Recommendations - taking a strong beginner for multipitch trad (or sport?)

Original Post
Soraya Khalje · · Aspen, co · Joined May 2009 · Points: 25

Hi there,

Taking my best friend climbing in Moab for the first time and want to do something fun and not too difficult (I can comfortably trad led up to 5.9 but want to keep it a little tamer).

We don't mind being there all day or just doing several sport climbs- I just want her to have fun.

Thanks!!!

Abe Traven · · Boise,ID · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 230

ice cream parlor or wall street.

george wilkey · · travelers rest sc · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 235

if your coming from boulder, stop at Colorado national monument for a day and climb otto's route on independence monument. it's 4 easy pitches, with one 5.8 move on the 2nd and one 5.9 move on the 4th. everything else is 5.7 or under(mostly under)and you get to top out on a ~500 ft. desert tower.

it's a really fun route that has bolted anchors and all the harder moves are well protected. then proceed to moab and hit wall street.

Alex Quinn · · Fayetteville, WV · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

+1 for otto's route. It sounds like it would be right up your alley. It's a super fun route at a really tame grade.

I don't know a ton about Moab but North Chimney (5.8) and Kor-Ingalls (5.9) on Castleton tower are both super classic.

Have fun!

george wilkey · · travelers rest sc · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 235

I wouldn't take a beginner on castleton, especially if your concerned enough to ask for suggestions on easy routes.

castleton is great but it is head and shoulders above otto's in terms of difficulty and exposer. the off-widths and chimneys of the KO route can be very difficult for someone with no experience with them and the calcite covered holds can be frustrating. NC would be better but crack experience is good to have there. also the exposer can be intimidating on KO and NC.

Abe Traven · · Boise,ID · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 230

you would be a fool if you took your friend up kor ingalls for their first time climbing. great way to epic, get hurt, and put someone off of climbing forever. Just because its graded 5.9 doesn't mean anything. i would stay away from castleton for someones first day climbing. ANcient art on the other hand would be ok.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I assume you are hoping for summit sex, otherwise, you'd stick to single pitch.

There are too many people on the top of Otto's. You'll never get it done. Same with Castleton.

How about a nice day of fun cragging on potash and a clean hotel room in Moab to get it done?

george wilkey · · travelers rest sc · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 235

I forgot about owl rock and Bullwinkle, both good beginner climbs. plus the tourists get a big kick out of watching climbers.

Jamespio Piotrowski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Long as we're talking about Moab, I'm looking for even easier stuff. Taking the kids and also hoping to talk my wife if I can find the right 5.6-ish. Schoolhouse Rock? Anything else?

george wilkey · · travelers rest sc · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 235

looking glass rock south of moab is a good kids climb at about 5.5 and another good beginner climb is south six shooter at indian creek it goes at 5.6 for the south face route.

Soraya Khalje · · Aspen, co · Joined May 2009 · Points: 25

Thanks everyone!! I should have been clearer that she has climbed before - she's just not a super strong climber. I thought she'd be ready for some fun multi pitch. I was thinking ancient Art but wasn't sure how busy it would be this weekend...but lots of good suggestions! Thanks!

Bill Wa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20

The Owl route is a 5.8 trad with interesting moves and abundant pro. Easy approach, spectacular sunset summit. Not very difficult for a beginner. Located in Arches National Park.
Single pitch little tower though.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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