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Recommendation For Approach Shoe/Trail Running Shoe

Original Post
Julian Smith · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,140

Been a big fan of La Sportiva’s Exum Ridge, and understand they don’t make them anymore. I know everyone isn’t a huge fan of them, but I love them. Anyone have any recommendations for a great climbing/approach shoe that can handle trail running OK? Many thanks for any advice.

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

I use the LaSportiva Raptor. It's a little more of a running shoe than the Exum Ridge, with the same Frixion rubber sole material. It doesn't have the stiff edging bit around the toe, so it probably won't do real climbing quite as well, but it runs like a true trail runner, and the sticky rubber lets it scramble up moderate stuff like a champ. Unless there's a lot of 3rd/4th class, or easy 5th-class pitches that I want to do in my approach shoes, I wear these. They are also my main hiking shoes.

mountaineer.com/store/merch…

I've run pretty good distances in my Guide Tennies as well. My older models are better climbing shoes, but the newer ones have a looser toe-box and more rockered last that runs pretty darned well. And of course, climbs much better. If you want to pull harder rock climbing moves (I'll lead up to about 5.6 in them), the GTs might be the ticket.

mountaineer.com/store/merch…

Owen Darrow · · Helena, mt · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,790

I used the Montrail D7 for as long as I could for whatever came my way not knowing that Columbia Sportswear would buy them out and discontinue making them. If I would have known I would have bought 10 pairs

ClimbPHX.com · · Mesa AZ · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,135

I will tell you that every Evolv approach shoe I have purchased
has failed. The toe box bottom always separates from the top and
rolls downward. Guess its poor gluing (?) but crappy that I use
their shoe twice and it falls apart.

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 19,012

I recently got a pair of LaSportiva Electrons. Can't say enough good things about them after running the Rim2Rim2Rim across the Grand Canyon (50+ miles) in them, virtually right out of the box with no blisters!! Even bouldered a bit in them along the way. They're more trail runners than for bouldering, but the sticky soles really grab the rocky portions of the trail.

Bud Martin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 380

The Sportive Fireblades are great, hike/run well and don't have mesh in places that get worn out climbing. You can get them resoled with dot rubber too.

Nick Flatley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 85

@Julian- I've run into the same problem and I too am looking for a solution. I can't seem to part with them (there is no rubber on the toes and holes in the soles). I have no real input, other than I am sad as well.

Julian Smith · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,140

Good news is that I spoke to Rock and Resole today, and they will put a half sole on with the same dot rubber as the pair originally came with. My heels are OK. The toe rand needs a little glue too, but they will take care of that.
Thanks for all the recommendations. I will check out the Sportiva Electrons and FIreblades too. Cheers!

Xan Calonne · · Yucca Valley · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 61

irrelevant now, perhaps but the scarpa epic is worth a look.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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