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Recommendation For Approach Shoe/Trail Running Shoe
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By Julian Smith
From Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 9, 2011
Julian Smith

Been a big fan of La Sportivaís Exum Ridge, and understand they donít make them anymore. I know everyone isnít a huge fan of them, but I love them. Anyone have any recommendations for a great climbing/approach shoe that can handle trail running OK? Many thanks for any advice.


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By Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Oct 9, 2011

I use the LaSportiva Raptor. It's a little more of a running shoe than the Exum Ridge, with the same Frixion rubber sole material. It doesn't have the stiff edging bit around the toe, so it probably won't do real climbing quite as well, but it runs like a true trail runner, and the sticky rubber lets it scramble up moderate stuff like a champ. Unless there's a lot of 3rd/4th class, or easy 5th-class pitches that I want to do in my approach shoes, I wear these. They are also my main hiking shoes.

mountaineer.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MT>>>

I've run pretty good distances in my Guide Tennies as well. My older models are better climbing shoes, but the newer ones have a looser toe-box and more rockered last that runs pretty darned well. And of course, climbs much better. If you want to pull harder rock climbing moves (I'll lead up to about 5.6 in them), the GTs might be the ticket.

mountaineer.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MT>>>


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By Owen Darrow
From Garmisch,
Oct 9, 2011
Nice view

I used the Montrail D7 for as long as I could for whatever came my way not knowing that Columbia Sportswear would buy them out and discontinue making them. If I would have known I would have bought 10 pairs


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By ClimbPHX.com
From Mesa AZ
Oct 9, 2011
Final Pitch on Birdland - 5.7 Red Rocks

I will tell you that every Evolv approach shoe I have purchased
has failed. The toe box bottom always separates from the top and
rolls downward. Guess its poor gluing (?) but crappy that I use
their shoe twice and it falls apart.


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By Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Oct 9, 2011
old 1/4" bolt.

I recently got a pair of LaSportiva Electrons. Can't say enough good things about them after running the Rim2Rim2Rim across the Grand Canyon (50+ miles) in them, virtually right out of the box with no blisters!! Even bouldered a bit in them along the way. They're more trail runners than for bouldering, but the sticky soles really grab the rocky portions of the trail.


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By Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
Oct 10, 2011

The Sportive Fireblades are great, hike/run well and don't have mesh in places that get worn out climbing. You can get them resoled with dot rubber too.


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By Nick Flatley
Oct 10, 2011

@Julian- I've run into the same problem and I too am looking for a solution. I can't seem to part with them (there is no rubber on the toes and holes in the soles). I have no real input, other than I am sad as well.


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By Julian Smith
From Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 10, 2011
Julian Smith

Good news is that I spoke to Rock and Resole today, and they will put a half sole on with the same dot rubber as the pair originally came with. My heels are OK. The toe rand needs a little glue too, but they will take care of that.
Thanks for all the recommendations. I will check out the Sportiva Electrons and FIreblades too. Cheers!


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By Xan Calonne
From Studio City, Ca
Oct 10, 2011

irrelevant now, perhaps but the scarpa epic is worth a look.


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