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Tobacco Road S 

Reckless Abandon 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 5,607
Submitted By: chad umbel on May 26, 2007

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Pulling the first Crux

Description 

A fine route on the best sandstone at the lake. Awesome positioning over the water on perfect white sandstone that climbs like yosemite granite. Walk past all of the routes in the impressive coloseum and end up on a terrace that takes you to the start of the route. There are three routes here. Reckless is the furthest left of the three.

Climb up onto a ledge and try not to blow the first move or you'll end up in the drink. Clip a bolt and do a big move up to nice horizontals. Surf up and right to a nice leg bar and make moves straight up and eventually heading left.

The crux is at the 4th bolt and can be done a few different ways. After this cruise up nice terrain that varies from steep jugs and even some fngerlocks. Finish up in a nice left facing corner to a pair of cold shuts. Be careful while cleaning any of these three routes. There is a boulder that lies directly behind them and it can ruin your day if you get a bunk lower out.

Location 

This climb is the farthest climb to climber left from the ladders at "high tide" (when the lake is full)(April-September).

Protection 

Quickdraws


Photos of Reckless Abandon Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin Umbel firing the first crux moves.
Kevin Umbel firing the first crux moves.
Pulling on the nice horizontals before the "b...
Pulling on the nice horizontals before the "b...
Michael Martin airing out a bit before firing the ...
Michael Martin airing out a bit before firing the ...
First crux move.
First crux move.
Mike a the rest before the crux
Mike a the rest before the crux
Entering The crux
Entering The crux

Comments on Reckless Abandon Add Comment
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By Christopher Hill
From: Charlottesville, VA
Aug 20, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

When the water's up, be sure to walk a good ways back towards the main cave when you pull your rope, or you'll be wringing it out for the next few hours.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Agreed on the left traverse being off. If you ever find yourself having to flick your rope around the arete, then you didn't do the crux.

This is the only small thing that kind of takes away from this ultra-classic route.
By Mark Paulson
Jun 1, 2012

I can only assume that the downgrading in the newest guide (12a) was due to the preponderance of people cheating the crux. If you climb it straight it's a solid b. At least compared to other a's at the NRG.
By BrianWS
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Question: Did this route ever go direct up at the 4th bolt? Or, has the slight traverse onto the right side of the bulge out just left always been the official line?

To add further disincentive for traversing left of the bulge (i.e. cheating), someone with remarkably good aim managed to toss a beer bottle onto the jugs, covering them with glass.
By shawn mccauley
Jun 17, 2013

yeah the hold broke a long time ago.