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Just left of the 4th pitch Squeeze chimney is a face with 2 bolts. Climb this face on thin patina. Pretty flaky rock, so be careful, as it obviously doesn't get climbed much. This gives another way to add variety to Schoolroom.
2 draws, and whatever else you need to get here and get beyond the end. i.e. See Schoolroom
|Comments on Recess Variation
|By Lee Jensen|
Jul 10, 2005
Although I actually like the standard OW crack route for Schoolroom, I think this slab makes a nice variation. The flakes are very small, but provide positive movement and there is a finger crack to the left if things get too dicey before you clip the second bolt. Above the second bolt it is easy 5.4 slab moves.
|By Jason Billings|
From: Draper, UT
May 17, 2006
It gets very thin before you can reach the second bolt and you will reach the trees if you come off.
|By David Shiembob|
From: slc, ut
Apr 27, 2007
I clipped the first bolt, then bailed to the chimney once I saw how far it was to the second bolt. Too bad, one more bolt and this would be a cool variation, just too runout for me as it is now...
Jul 2, 2007
This route was climbed back in the 70's...It's in the old guidebook, Desperate Grace.
Jun 16, 2009
This is one of the few slabs that i actually liked leading, i thought it was fun and added some excitement to this entire rout. This is definitely the way that you should do this rout if you want to add some spice instead of climbing the ow, or at least give it a try, its a lot of fun.
|By sean roberds|
Apr 24, 2012
I ended up being able to place a # 1.5 wildcountry friend after the second bolt in a crack. I would almost suggest a tricam in there, making it a little less sketchy traversing.