Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Schoolroom Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bungle, The 
Bushwhack Crack 
Callitwhatyouplease 
Chicken Rodeo 
Great Ripoff, The 
Hatchet Crack 
Heaven's Gate 
Hook Direct, The 
Hook Variation, The 
Hook, The 
Knobs to Gumbyland 
Lizzie Borden 
Mantel Variation 
Mind Blow 
Movie Variation 
Playing Hooky Var. 
Recess Variation 
Rumba, The 
Schoolroom 
Schoolroom Chimney 
Schoolroom Direct Variation 
Schoolroom Roof 
Schoolroom West 
Scourge, The 
Stone the Crows 
Talus Food 

Recess Variation 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Lenny Nelson, Tom Oaks, 1989
Page Views: 662
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 14, 2004
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Marc following up the slab just above the second b...
The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Just left of the 4th pitch Squeeze chimney is a face with 2 bolts. Climb this face on thin patina. Pretty flaky rock, so be careful, as it obviously doesn't get climbed much. This gives another way to add variety to Schoolroom.


Protection 

2 draws, and whatever else you need to get here and get beyond the end. i.e. See Schoolroom



Comments on Recess Variation Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lee Jensen
Jul 10, 2005

Although I actually like the standard OW crack route for Schoolroom, I think this slab makes a nice variation. The flakes are very small, but provide positive movement and there is a finger crack to the left if things get too dicey before you clip the second bolt. Above the second bolt it is easy 5.4 slab moves.

By Jason Billings
From: Draper, UT
May 17, 2006

It gets very thin before you can reach the second bolt and you will reach the trees if you come off.

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Apr 27, 2007

I clipped the first bolt, then bailed to the chimney once I saw how far it was to the second bolt. Too bad, one more bolt and this would be a cool variation, just too runout for me as it is now...

By bsmoot
Jul 2, 2007

This route was climbed back in the 70's...It's in the old guidebook, Desperate Grace.

By devin027
Jun 16, 2009

This is one of the few slabs that i actually liked leading, i thought it was fun and added some excitement to this entire rout. This is definitely the way that you should do this rout if you want to add some spice instead of climbing the ow, or at least give it a try, its a lot of fun.

By sean roberds
From: sandy,ut
Apr 24, 2012

I ended up being able to place a # 1.5 wildcountry friend after the second bolt in a crack. I would almost suggest a tricam in there, making it a little less sketchy traversing.