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Zot Face, The T 

Rebuffat's Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Joe O'Laughlin, Steve Turner, 1968
Page Views: 2,491
Submitted By: Joshinator on Apr 17, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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AS mounting the arete after a wild ride.

  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is most popularly done as a variation to the fifth pitch of Rewritten. From the dead tree belay of Rewritten, avoid the chossy gully and head straight out right on to the edge of the arete. There is more protection than would first appear. Have fun peeking over the edge and head right up to the top. Then carefully downclimb 5-10 feet to the notch. It is 80'.

    It can also be done from lower on Rewritten, right after the hand traverse and finger crack on pitch 4. Instead of moving left, head straight up the arete. It is 190', PG-13.

    It can also be accessed from Tower Corner Exit. Reach the arete by moving left up a ramp system, then follow to the top as above. It is 130'.


    Standard Eldorado rack.

    Photos of Rebuffat's Arete Slideshow Add Photo
    Looking down the arete. The top of Rewritten's 4th...
    Looking down the arete. The top of Rewritten's 4th...
    Looking up at the spectacular arete
    Looking up at the spectacular arete
    Unknown climber hanging out near the top of Rebuff...
    Unknown climber hanging out near the top of Rebuff...
    Rewritten Variation awesomeness!!!
    Rewritten Variation awesomeness!!!

    Comments on Rebuffat's Arete Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Apr 8, 2014

    Not sure this pitch deserves its own page. It really is just a variation to Rewritten's pitch 5, albeit the preferred one. If we start adding a page to MP for every variation to every climb in Eldo (and beyond), I'm pretty sure the servers will crash and burn in a brilliant fireball of 1s and 0s.
    By William Thiry
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Oct 4, 2014
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Simply brilliant pitch.
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