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Rebuffat (Southeast Face) T 

Rebuffat (Southeast Face) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 859
Submitted By: Colin Simon on Sep 29, 2011

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The Southeast face of the Aiguille du Midi.

Description 

The ultra-classic moderate rock climb of the Vallee Blanche.

Climbs immaculate granite up the sunny southeast face of the Aiguille du Midi, and then a simple 10-meter rappel back to the cable car station.

After sampling the best granite in the Sierras and Colorado, I can say that the rock on the Rebuffat route, particularly the lower pitches, is hard to beat.

Location 

From the Aiguille du Midi station, walk down the exposed ridge (crampons required), onto the glacier, turn right and gape at the awesome orange-red granite in front of you.

Atop the face, a single, straightforward 10-meter rappel places you on the cable car terrace.

Protection 

Doubles from small to #3 camalot. One or two #4's if seriously lacking in wide crack skills.


Comments on Rebuffat (Southeast Face) Add Comment
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By Daryl Teittinen
From: Truckee CA
Dec 16, 2011

Can you draw in a route line on this awesome looking feature?
Is there an english guidebook to the Chamonix area rock/alpine climbing? Obviously MtProject needs me to go there and add some more stuff!!
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 2, 2012

Hey Daryl, just saw your post. Yeah, I'll draw a line.

Yes, MP needs a lot more work.

I've found that the best resources for Cham are ukclimbing.net and summitpost.org

As for guidebooks, look for 100 Finest Climbs of Mt Blanc Range by Gaston Rebuffat.
By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Apr 3, 2012

Also see Snow, Ice, and Mixed.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Oct 4, 2013

mountainproject.com/v/voie-rbu...