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Rebolting effort at Qual Wall, Gov. Dodge SP, Wisconsin
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By Dylan B.
Aug 16, 2014
Orgasm Direct, Devil's Lake, 5.11a  c. 2008
Hey folks,

It's time to start thinking about rebolting quite a bit of the Qual Qall at Gov. Dodge. I've been out several times this year and there are a lot of spinners, rusty bolts, anchors and chains, and wear on chain links. You can see that the stone has eroded around some bolts and they're protruding from the rock. Specific concerns are the first four bolts on Schitzophrenia/Meaner than Green and the anchors on Now or Never (lower anchor for Red Recollection). There's probably a lot more. My guesstimate is that most of those bolts are going on 20-25 years old.

I know the DNR doesn't want bolting at Gov. Dodge, but I wonder if the Access Fund or Wisconsin Climber's Coalition might begin a lobbying effort to get permission to rebolt. To be honest, it seems like with the low-quality stone there, glue-ins would be appropriate.

I don't have the skill or knowledge to rebolt, and I'm moving away soon. But I think that the conversation should start. I'd be willing to meet with park officials and go over the benefits of allowing a rebolt effort.

FLAG
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 18, 2014
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
Dylan, the current management was opposed to even cleaning up trees from the storm damage. I think the best thing we can do at the moment is build a positive relationship, perhaps through the Friends group.

FLAG
By Matthew Clausen
Aug 18, 2014
I think the addition this year of Gov. Dodge to the Century Climbing Challenge will help with the introduction to the Friends society. It's made a large impact on growing the relationship between the climbing community and the park at Devil's Lake.

And Doug, welcome back from your trip!

FLAG
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 19, 2014
JJ Schlick on first ropeless ascent of Cranium Crack .12 Watson Lake, Prescott, AZ.  1999
How are these issues addressed at Willow River State Park?

If the existing holes were reused to accomadate some 6" stainless glue-ins, you would simply be swapping out the hardware more or less. No harm, no foul?

The earliest routes at The Qual Wall are already close to twenty years old, and it seems like they have passed the test of time as far as rock quality goes. The place has turned into a picture perfect little crag throughout the years, and does deserve the up grades.

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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 19, 2014
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
At Willow River in the 90s, the local park Supt. was really open to bolts as a way to protect the flora at the top of the cliff, and climbers were open to not being there on weekends. If I remember, they also got some Access Fund money to help with parking? (this is all second hand, I wasn't involved).

I hope/suppose that Twin Cities climbers are keeping up the good relationship there? Randy was talking about doing some general fund-raising for the Park a couple of years ago ... anyone know if that happened?

Anyway, different Supt, different concerns.

FLAG
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Aug 19, 2014
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
JJ Schlick wrote:
How are these issues addressed at Willow River State Park? If the existing holes were reused to accomadate some 6" stainless glue-ins, you would simply be swapping out the hardware more or less. No harm, no foul? The earliest routes at The Qual Wall are already close to twenty years old, and it seems like they have passed the test of time as far as rock quality goes. The place has turned into a picture perfect little crag throughout the years, and does deserve the up grades.


I agree...replacing hardware is not the same as installing new bolts. Seems like a no-brainer to upgrade them.

FLAG
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 19, 2014
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
Let's hear from Dobbe and Remo. They'd have a better sense of this than I would.

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By SteveSchultz
Aug 19, 2014
I won't speak directly for Remo or Dobbe here, but our understanding as of right now is that if we asked to replace hardware, they'd be far more likely to ban climbing than to allow the replacement. They've never been happy about the bolts in the first place anyways and this would possibly give them an out.

Like many of you I would love to see them replaced but I don't see it as being very likely at the moment.

FLAG
 
By Dobbe
Aug 19, 2014
Sorry just seeing this now. I would say that the super at the park would not allow it. My guess would be like Steve's. If it was unsafe to climb then they would say no climbing.

The only way I could see this happening is to get a okay from higher up the chain that replacing bolts is okay in Wisconsin and taking that to the park.

Doug we should talk about who that would be and how to get started on it.

Thanks
Dobbe

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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Aug 20, 2014
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
What if (God forbid) one of those old bolts fails? Think of the access problems that would create and how the park would look upon climbing then.

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By Chris Vinson
Aug 20, 2014
This is a pretty cool article on rebolting, check it out.

eveningsends.com/climbing/chop...

FLAG
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 20, 2014
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
Should we meet? I'm thinking Thursday after this, 7.30ish at Memorial Union? A couple of folks have contacted me offline.

And it has been suggested we should bomb this thread ... is that OK with everyone, now that we've gotten some communication started?

FLAG
By James M Schroeder
From Sauk County, WI
Aug 20, 2014
Photo by Pete "Coach" Arndt
I'm happy to meet, gotta check with the wifey to make sure Thursday works, but I'm into a meeting and will make the drive into Madison for one.

Is this thread a threat to access?

FLAG
By James M Schroeder
From Sauk County, WI
Aug 20, 2014
Photo by Pete "Coach" Arndt
Well PM me and put me on the email thread.

FLAG
By James M Schroeder
From Sauk County, WI
Aug 20, 2014
Photo by Pete "Coach" Arndt
I can do next Thursday, I'd rather do it at 6:00p if that works. That way I can leave straight from Baraboo after work, and be home at a decent hour.

FLAG
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 20, 2014
JJ Schlick on first ropeless ascent of Cranium Crack .12 Watson Lake, Prescott, AZ.  1999
NR 1.33NR 1.33  Policy on rock climbing. Rock climbing is a traditional recreational activity that may occur on non-designated use areas on department lands, and is consistent with the department's mission to provide recreational opportunities to the public. Rock climbing should be considered in master planning for department properties which contain areas where rock climbing may occur.


Is this it, as far as their "rock climbing policy"? If so, it sounds to me like a very pro rock climbing stance. Limited in its scope, but maybe that allows the climbing community to do what needs to be done and simply do it without approaching the park at all. Maybe all you need is a highly trained operative who specializes in the shadowy art of glue-ins. Deal with the routes on a triage basis...

FLAG
 
By Tradoholic
Aug 20, 2014
Don't ask, do.

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By Austin Lynch
Aug 21, 2014
Gaining the bulge.
JJ Schlick wrote:
NR 1.33NR 1.33  Policy on rock climbing. Rock climbing is a traditional recreational activity that may occur on non-designated use areas on department lands, and is consistent with the department's mission to provide recreational opportunities to the public. Rock climbing should be considered in master planning for department properties which contain areas where rock climbing may occur.


It seems like this makes it pretty clear - rock climbing is allowed (in non-designated use areas), and should in fact be encouraged and supported by the department. Is there some reason that this doesn't apply to Gov Dodge State Park?

FLAG


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