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Y-Crack Wall
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Rebel Yell 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Groth or Bechlar
Page Views: 1,748
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Mike Gasch up high on Rebel Yell. Straight no Cha...

Description 

A classic oldschool lead origanlly done with only the two SMC bolts and gear. Dave added a bolt higher up which makes the route safe enough. Start up ledges towards a seam to a small overhang. Crimp past the overhang on the right and work into the scooped out face on right never straying too far from the arete. Move left at the glue in ring bolt around the corner into high crack to finish on the left of the arete. Good moves throughout and some decent exposure as well.


Location 

Right side of the Y-Crack wall, aka- the Whiskey wall, aka the Meter wall.


Protection 

An orange Metolius tricam fits well in the lowest gear spot. A blue Black Diamond junior is bomber in the second gear spot below the overhang. Three bolts take you up to the point where you turn the arete to the left side. I had a nice yellow Camalot up here though some smaller ones would work just a bit lower.



Photos of Rebel Yell Slideshow Add Photo
Rhoads "au naturel".
Rhoads "au naturel".
Rhoads sticking the lower crux.
Rhoads sticking the lower crux.
Rhoads on TR.
Rhoads on TR.
Comments on Rebel Yell Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I finished right of the arete and found it solid and fun. I will come back to lead it for sure.

By Tradoholic
Apr 22, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

With the invent of micro gear this climb now goes "au naturel" with an easy "R" rating. A run out after the physical crux runs up the slab to a bomber #2 Metolious Cam in a slot. Long live trad climbing!

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Apr 23, 2010

Good to know! Nice thx Nick. I was eying this up a few weeks ago. Looks like I'll have to get on it soon!

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 23, 2010

"Easy 'R' rating"?

What does that mean?

By Tradoholic
Apr 23, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

"Easy R" because it's run out pretty good but the climbing in that section is the easiest with bomber pro below you.