Really great line on the arete and face to the right of Psychostematic. There is a direct start off the Psychobabble belay that has a fun move or two and a direct finish staying on the arete all the way that is quite a bit harder. The original route veers right onto the face to a fixed pin and through a small roof. Scope it out so you don't ruin your onsite. You need a .75 or #1 camalot for the last piece of protection and its easy to place. A nice sustained line you'll want to do again and again.
draws, .75 or #1 camalot
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 30, 2012
Don't screw yourself by trying to stay on the right side of the arete only. Good holds abound around left. Very airy climb and not many jugs. The crux comes getting to the piton on some pinches and slopers. Finally a good lieback jug appears above the piton. Another good one on the psychobabble wall. Recommend the direct start, but not the direct finish(too hard)