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Black Corridor
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Unsorted Routes:

Rebel Without a Pause 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steagall, Sandefur, Werner, & Sobocan - 1990
Page Views: 8,620
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (168)
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the crux move

Description 

Hands down the best route in the Black Corridor - it is the obvious line that sits at the mouth of the upper section. It begins on a terrace then climbs up steep, heavily-chalked huecos.


Protection 

Four bolts to a lower off.



Photos of Rebel Without a Pause Slideshow Add Photo
Me, hangin out on Rebel Without a Pause
Me, hangin out on Rebel Without a Pause
Demo of possible Z-Clip at the third bolt.
BETA PHOTO: Demo of possible Z-Clip at the third bolt.
Andy Hansen.  Dec 2011 <br /> <br /><a href='http://www.mattkuehlphoto.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.mattkuehlphoto.com</a>
Andy Hansen. Dec 2011

www.mattkuehlphoto.com
From the belay perch.
BETA PHOTO: From the belay perch.
Beta shot of the top.
BETA PHOTO: Beta shot of the top.
Working through the crux
Working through the crux
Me entering the "crux" on a super sick problem in the Black Corridor
Me entering the "crux" on a super sick problem in ...
Beta shot of the bottom section.
BETA PHOTO: Beta shot of the bottom section.
Rebel Without a Pause
BETA PHOTO: Rebel Without a Pause
Bryan Bell holding on to get his flash of Rebel Without A Pause
Bryan Bell holding on to get his flash of Rebel Wi...
Local Sabe redpointing RWOAP!
Local Sabe redpointing RWOAP!
Crux moves at the undercling.
BETA PHOTO: Crux moves at the undercling.
Josh pulls into the overhang on Rebel Without a cause.
Josh pulls into the overhang on Rebel Without a ca...
JP on the crux
JP on the crux
Jeff somehow made this look way harder than it is.  Good thing he's so strong.
Jeff somehow made this look way harder than it is....
Perfect climb for a summer day in Las Vegas!
Perfect climb for a summer day in Las Vegas!
Rebel Without a Pause
Rebel Without a Pause
Laura at the crux of Rebel Without a Pause
Laura at the crux of Rebel Without a Pause
Comments on Rebel Without a Pause Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 26, 2014
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Fun climbing up steep, positive holds provides a welcome change of pace from the typical Black Corridor slabfest. If you do just one route in the BC make sure it's this one.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 23, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Unfortunately just a little on the short side though...

By Andrew May
From: Sandy, UT
May 12, 2006

I agree. I wouldnt mind about three more bolts of that kind of climbing. Fun route and all the holds are right where you need them.

By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
May 17, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This route has awesome moves, with some variety (crimps, jugs, slopes, undercling...) A bit of beta: Be careful of the possibility of a Z-Clip at the third bolt, as you are close to the wall and the bolt. Use the right-handed undercling when moving through the crux, rather than throwing to the top. It's much more controlled, and a very fun sequence.

By Deaun Schovajsa
Oct 17, 2006

Note to one of the locals - just did this route last week and several of the bolts and one of the anchors is loose and should be replaced.

By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Nov 7, 2008

The new guide book has this at 11b, Seriously? It's 6 moves once you leave the ledge to the upper left hand jug and the first 3 are good jugs. A good route regardless of the inflation. The anchors are still looking sketchy.

By protohyp designs
Dec 2, 2008

Agreed on the anchors. Pulled out about 1/4-3/8 of an inch. My friend was TR'ing it and was hanging on the anchors for a while....would definitely have to be replaced soon because if someone was saying they were loose in 2006...well you get the picture....

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

On March 29th, 2010- the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced all four protection bolts and the anchors on this route. All new bolts (except one) are 1/2" x 2.75 SS 5- piece. The 3rd bolt is a 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece (this was placed due to rock quality concerns).

The anchor has been moved from the left side of the top scoop to the right due to terrible rock quality on the left side (as indicated by the extremely poor condition of the bolts)- the bolts are now up and right as you top out, and are equipped with mussy hooks for ease of cleaning. All other pro bolts were placed in the same vicinity as the old ones.

Special thanks to the AAI for their help today.

By Jhernand
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 2, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

agreed with jarthur... 11b is a little steep i think. i would give it a high 10 if not straight up 11. just my $.02

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

The LVCLC was made aware of the bolt slipping out of the hole on Sunday morning and went out immediately and replaced the bolt. It seems that we had under-torqued it when we originally placed it- a horrible oversight that we deeply apologize for. The bolts on Rebel were all checked for torque on Sunday and all are now torqued to proper spec.

By Fink
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
May 25, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

A better rating for this route would be V3--consider if it was a boulder with the ground at the level of the rest ledge after the 1st bolt.

New anchors and bolts much appreciated!

By Matthew W.
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 1, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Climbed a few days ago and the right most of the 2 chain anchors at the top has a broken gate. The other is fine though.

By farkas.time
From: Sheffield, SY
Apr 5, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Big moves on good holds. A bit overhung, so pumpy. Good for trying hard and falling. Short.

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 24, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Oozed off the final holds while clipping the anchor way back in 1995. Just ran out of gas. Big air for a short route. Huge round of applause from the crowds in the BC. Fond memory (especially since I didn't hit anything.)

By EFS
Jul 25, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

light 11, awesome looking sitting in the upper corridor, saw it and knew i had to get on it. i was glad i did. left it top roped for my buddy to unclip as he went up. nice climb but short.

By Jason Cheung
Feb 20, 2014

Climbed this on 2/17 and one of the gates one hook is kinda busted. Also seconding the mention of a super easy opportunity to z clip.

By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
May 26, 2014

Fantastic route; more of a short, pumpy, super fun boulder problem. Be careful not to Zclip the crux as the bolts are so close together (whoops). FYI Bolts were somewhat loose (spun a bit) as of 4/27/14 as are many in the area.