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Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued 
Live Fast, Die Young 
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Oils Well that Ends Well 
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Rebel Without a Pause 
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Unsorted Routes:

Rebel Without a Pause 

5.11a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
FA: Steagall, Sandefur, Werner, & Sobocan - 1990
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (119)
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BETA PHOTO: Rebel Without a Pause

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Description 

Hands down the best route in the Black Corridor - it is the obvious line that sits at the mouth of the upper section. It begins on a terrace then climbs up steep, heavily-chalked huecos.


Protection 

Four bolts to a lower off.



Photos of Rebel Without a Pause Slideshow Add Photo
Crux moves at the undercling.

BETA PHOTO: Crux moves at the undercling.

Demo of possible Z-Clip at the third bolt.

BETA PHOTO: Demo of possible Z-Clip at the third bolt.

Beta shot of the bottom section.

BETA PHOTO: Beta shot of the bottom section.

Beta shot of the top.

BETA PHOTO: Beta shot of the top.

From the belay perch.

BETA PHOTO: From the belay perch.

Me, hangin out on Rebel Without a Pause

Me, hangin out on Rebel Without a Pause

the crux move

the crux move

Jeff somehow made this look way harder than it is.  Good thing he's so strong.

Jeff somehow made this look way harder than it is....

Rebel Without a Pause

Rebel Without a Pause

Me entering the "crux" on a super sick problem in the Black Corridor

Me entering the "crux" on a super sick problem in ...

Local Sabe redpointing RWOAP!

Local Sabe redpointing RWOAP!

Bryan Bell holding on to get his flash of Rebel Without A Pause

Bryan Bell holding on to get his flash of Rebel Wi...

Josh pulls into the overhang on Rebel Without a cause.

Josh pulls into the overhang on Rebel Without a ca...

Andy Hansen.  Dec 2011 <br /> <br /><a href='http://www.mattkuehlphoto.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.mattkuehlphoto.com</a>

Andy Hansen. Dec 2011

www.mattkuehlphoto.com


JP on the crux

JP on the crux

Perfect climb for a summer day in Las Vegas!

Perfect climb for a summer day in Las Vegas!

Working through the crux

Working through the crux

Laura at the crux of Rebel Without a Pause

Laura at the crux of Rebel Without a Pause


Comments on Rebel Without a Pause Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 25, 2012
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.11a

Fun climbing up steep, positive holds provides a welcome change of pace from the typical Black Corridor slabfest. If you do just one route in the BC make sure it's this one.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 23, 2006
rating: 5.11a

Unfortunately just a little on the short side though...

By Andrew May
From: Sandy, UT
May 12, 2006

I agree. I wouldnt mind about three more bolts of that kind of climbing. Fun route and all the holds are right where you need them.

By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
May 17, 2006
rating: 5.11a

This route has awesome moves, with some variety (crimps, jugs, slopes, undercling...) A bit of beta: Be careful of the possibility of a Z-Clip at the third bolt, as you are close to the wall and the bolt. Use the right-handed undercling when moving through the crux, rather than throwing to the top. It's much more controlled, and a very fun sequence.

By Deaun Schovajsa
Oct 17, 2006

Note to one of the locals - just did this route last week and several of the bolts and one of the anchors is loose and should be replaced.

By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Nov 7, 2008
rating: 5.11a

The new guide book has this at 11b, Seriously? It's 6 moves once you leave the ledge to the upper left hand jug and the first 3 are good jugs. A good route regardless of the inflation. The anchors are still looking sketchy.

By protohyp designs
Dec 2, 2008

Agreed on the anchors. Pulled out about 1/4-3/8 of an inch. My friend was TR'ing it and was hanging on the anchors for a while....would definitely have to be replaced soon because if someone was saying they were loose in 2006...well you get the picture....

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.11a

On March 29th, 2010- the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced all four protection bolts and the anchors on this route. All new bolts (except one) are 1/2" x 2.75 SS 5- piece. The 3rd bolt is a 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece (this was placed due to rock quality concerns).

The anchor has been moved from the left side of the top scoop to the right due to terrible rock quality on the left side (as indicated by the extremely poor condition of the bolts)- the bolts are now up and right as you top out, and are equipped with mussy hooks for ease of cleaning. All other pro bolts were placed in the same vicinity as the old ones.

Special thanks to the AAI for their help today.

By Jhernand
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 2, 2010
rating: 5.10d

agreed with jarthur... 11b is a little steep i think. i would give it a high 10 if not straight up 11. just my $.02

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.11a

The LVCLC was made aware of the bolt slipping out of the hole on Sunday morning and went out immediately and replaced the bolt. It seems that we had under-torqued it when we originally placed it- a horrible oversight that we deeply apologize for. The bolts on Rebel were all checked for torque on Sunday and all are now torqued to proper spec.

By Fink
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
May 25, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b

A better rating for this route would be V3--consider if it was a boulder with the ground at the level of the rest ledge after the 1st bolt.

New anchors and bolts much appreciated!

By Matthew W.
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 1, 2012
rating: 5.11-

Climbed a few days ago and the right most of the 2 chain anchors at the top has a broken gate. The other is fine though.

By farkas.time
From: Sheffield, UK
Apr 5, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d

Big moves on good holds. A bit overhung, so pumpy. Good for trying hard and falling. Short.

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 24, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d

Oozed off the final holds while clipping the anchor way back in 1995. Just ran out of gas. Big air for a short route. Huge round of applause from the crowds in the BC. Fond memory (especially since I didn't hit anything.)

By EFS
Jul 25, 2012
rating: 5.11a

light 11, awesome looking sitting in the upper corridor, saw it and knew i had to get on it. i was glad i did. left it top roped for my buddy to unclip as he went up. nice climb but short.