Rebel Without a Pause 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Steagall, Sandefur, Werner, & Sobocan - 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Oct 1, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: Rebel Without a Pause
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Description Hands down the best route in the Black Corridor - it is the obvious line that sits at the mouth of the upper section. It begins on a terrace then climbs up steep, heavily-chalked huecos.
Protection Four bolts to a lower off.
BETA PHOTO: Crux moves at the undercling.
| BETA PHOTO: Demo of possible Z-Clip at the third bolt.
| BETA PHOTO: Beta shot of the bottom section.
| BETA PHOTO: Beta shot of the top.
| BETA PHOTO: From the belay perch.
| Me, hangin out on Rebel Without a Pause
| the crux move
| Jeff somehow made this look way harder than it is....
| Rebel Without a Pause
| Me entering the "crux" on a super sick problem in ...
| Local Sabe redpointing RWOAP!
| Bryan Bell holding on to get his flash of Rebel Wi...
| Josh pulls into the overhang on Rebel Without a ca...
| Andy Hansen. Dec 2011 www.mattkuehlphoto.com
| JP on the crux
| Perfect climb for a summer day in Las Vegas!
| Working through the crux
| Laura at the crux of Rebel Without a Pause
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| Comments on Rebel Without a Pause |
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By C Miller Administrator Feb 22, 2006 rating: 5.11a
| Fun climbing up steep, positive holds provides a welcome change of pace from the typical Black Corridor slabfest. If you do just one route in the BC make sure it's this one. |
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator Feb 23, 2006 rating: 5.11a
| Unfortunately just a little on the short side though... |
By Andrew May From: Sandy, UT May 12, 2006
| I agree. I wouldnt mind about three more bolts of that kind of climbing. Fun route and all the holds are right where you need them. |
By Matt McMurray From: Castle Rock, CO May 17, 2006 rating: 5.11a
| This route has awesome moves, with some variety (crimps, jugs, slopes, undercling...) A bit of beta: Be careful of the possibility of a Z-Clip at the third bolt, as you are close to the wall and the bolt. Use the right-handed undercling when moving through the crux, rather than throwing to the top. It's much more controlled, and a very fun sequence. |
By Deaun Schovajsa Oct 17, 2006
| Note to one of the locals - just did this route last week and several of the bolts and one of the anchors is loose and should be replaced. |
By jarthur From: Westminster, CO Nov 7, 2008 rating: 5.11a
| The new guide book has this at 11b, Seriously? It's 6 moves once you leave the ledge to the upper left hand jug and the first 3 are good jugs. A good route regardless of the inflation. The anchors are still looking sketchy. |
By protohyp designs Dec 2, 2008
| Agreed on the anchors. Pulled out about 1/4-3/8 of an inch. My friend was TR'ing it and was hanging on the anchors for a while....would definitely have to be replaced soon because if someone was saying they were loose in 2006...well you get the picture.... |
By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Mar 29, 2010 rating: 5.11a
| On March 29th, 2010- the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced all four protection bolts and the anchors on this route. All new bolts (except one) are 1/2" x 2.75 SS 5- piece. The 3rd bolt is a 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece (this was placed due to rock quality concerns). The anchor has been moved from the left side of the top scoop to the right due to terrible rock quality on the left side (as indicated by the extremely poor condition of the bolts)- the bolts are now up and right as you top out, and are equipped with mussy hooks for ease of cleaning. All other pro bolts were placed in the same vicinity as the old ones. Special thanks to the AAI for their help today. |
By Jhernand From: Salt Lake City, UT Apr 2, 2010 rating: 5.10d
| agreed with jarthur... 11b is a little steep i think. i would give it a high 10 if not straight up 11. just my $.02 |
By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Apr 5, 2010 rating: 5.11a
| The LVCLC was made aware of the bolt slipping out of the hole on Sunday morning and went out immediately and replaced the bolt. It seems that we had under-torqued it when we originally placed it- a horrible oversight that we deeply apologize for. The bolts on Rebel were all checked for torque on Sunday and all are now torqued to proper spec. |
By Fink From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT May 25, 2011 rating: 5.11a/b
| A better rating for this route would be V3--consider if it was a boulder with the ground at the level of the rest ledge after the 1st bolt. New anchors and bolts much appreciated! |
By Matthew W. From: Boulder, CO Apr 1, 2012 rating: 5.11-
| Climbed a few days ago and the right most of the 2 chain anchors at the top has a broken gate. The other is fine though. |
By farkas.time From: Sheffield, UK Apr 5, 2012 rating: 5.10c/d
| Big moves on good holds. A bit overhung, so pumpy. Good for trying hard and falling. Short. |
By Peter Lewis From: Bridgton, Maine May 24, 2012 rating: 5.10c/d
| Oozed off the final holds while clipping the anchor way back in 1995. Just ran out of gas. Big air for a short route. Huge round of applause from the crowds in the BC. Fond memory (especially since I didn't hit anything.) |
By EFS Jul 25, 2012 rating: 5.11a
| light 11, awesome looking sitting in the upper corridor, saw it and knew i had to get on it. i was glad i did. left it top roped for my buddy to unclip as he went up. nice climb but short. |
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