Rebel Wall is the all-too-infrequently climbed complex of walls directly above Pete's Wicked Cave. The Wall faces South, is high enough on the hill side to get good sun most of the day, and has plenty of routes to keep the party going for most of the day. While there are some bolts here and there, the crag has been largely developed as a trad spot and consequently most lines chase obvious crack systems. Most of the lines currently developed are left of the wide overhang on the right side of the crag. Most guidebooks to Clear Creek Canyon are outdated and this is especially true for the Rebel Wall. Nonetheless, for convenience sake, numbering here follows the old Hubbel guide (1995) that lists 21 routes from left to right. Noto Bene: This crag sits directly above the road where the rock fall potential is dramatic, so take the usual precautions or more so.
Park in the pull-out at the large black boulder 7.2 miles up the canyon. Rebel Wall can be approached from either the West or East via rough trails. The crag lies right above mile marker 264.
Eds. the 4th class can be avoided by staying further left (west) on the approach.
A. Amy Is No Help, 4, 1p, gear. B. Learner's Permit, 5, 1p, gear. C. Unknown, 1p, bolts. D. Dirty Girl, 8, 1p, 60', bolts, pin, gear. E. Large Crack, 9, 1p, 120', gear. F. Large Crack (Mabe's version), 9, 1p, 100', gear. G. Momma Says Knock You Out, 11-, 1p, 80', gear. above G? The Curse of Eve, 12+?, gear. H. Epidot, 11, 1p. I. Southpaw, 10-, 1p, 95', bolts. J. Body English, 9, 1p, 90', gear above J. Upper Cut, 10, 1p, 50', gear. K. Make It So, 10+ PG-13, 1p, 75', gear & bolts. above I. Make It Go, 9, 1p. L. Jump Start, 11 R. M1. Only The Strong, 11. M2. Dreidel, 10, bolts & gear. N1. Piedmont Boulder Toad, 10, bolts & gear. N2. Siouxnami, 12, bolts & gear. above N. Winter Kill, 12+. O. Last Chance to Dance, 11+, bolts & gear. P. Busta Move, 11+, 1p, bolts. Q. Down To The Wire, 11. R. Floppy Boot Stomp, 8-, 2p, 195', gear. S. Whistling Dixie, 6, gear. Below main crag.
This sparring match begins on the face of the large, right-facing dihedral, which is just to the left of the corner crack Body English. Use some fancy footwork through the edgy climbing, step off the ledge into the shallow, aręte crack and follow it to a second small ledge below a blocky, overhanging, right-facing dihedral. Clip the bolt above the ledge, move up to the dihedral, and carefully clip the next bolt out left above the blocky dihedral. Sequence your “punches” and pull ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
This is actually a nifty little crag, and it actually does sit right above Pete's Wicked Cave. The approach is from the next pulloff after the one with the black boulder (as for Pete's). These lines look like they would become a little more comfortable with some traffic.
For the approach, ignore the first cairn when walking upriver from the Rebel boulder; walk another 100 feet up the road to a second cairn. Follow cairned trail to wall, but go L and up to next higher ledge, which is where the climbs start.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado May 6, 2010
FWIW, there are even ticks up here.
Also, the approach is suboptimal. Expect 3rd class. If you go above that, you are on harder than necessary terrain.
Finally, the crag is largely in the shade until late morning.
Trail is still faint, cairns are intact though, follow them. Somewhat adventurous approach, just wear decent shoes and be careful. It's an interesting crag, I guess people don't like visiting random places as much as I do....
It might be a better idea to park at the Nightworm Pinnacle to hit the trail to Rebel Wall more directly. There is no great way to enter the trail off the road, but there is a cairn near a small shrub that leads through the switchbacks up. The trail is a bit faint and ends up being class 4-ish at the top, which can be interesting with a climbing pack but is straightforward enough....