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Routes in Lilly Bluff
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Alien S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Aneurism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Backer Spit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blade Loafer T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blasphemy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Blasphemy Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Body Hammer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Boogie Man S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Borderline S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Clyde the Mega Dude S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crackin' Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dinosaur Jr. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Dirty Deeds S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Done Dirt Cheep S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Drive By S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Egyptian S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Electric Chair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Electric Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Evil Weed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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First Laugh S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gangsta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Giggle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hieroglyphics S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ivy League S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Junior's BBB S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Krieg's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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La Familia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Last Laugh S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lounge Lizard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mixed Nuts T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Motion Sickness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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NC Sport Climber T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Neanderthal T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ode to the Quitter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Organized Crime S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Osiris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Paraphernalia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Piggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poison Ivy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rebel Flag T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rocking Chair T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Rolling Coal T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tarantella S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Temporary Insanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ticks Are For Kids S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trickin the Weasel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Unga Bunga T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Wheatward Bound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Whipper Snapper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Yakuza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Taylor Roy and Leah Frazer, 8/8/15 |
| Page Views: | 1,000 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Aug 9, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kristin Tippey, Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
A great traditional route that requires much more crack skill than it's neighbor- Rolling Coal.
Scramble up the same dirty slab that accesses Rolling Coal. A few intro moves get you below the flaring hand crack in a 7 foot roof. Jam past good pods until the crack pinches down to fingers at the lip. Long pulls between perfect fingerlocks with tough feet lead to a strange handjam and some much appreciated face holds. A few easier moves gain a large horizontal break. Traverse left to the finish of Rolling Coal.
Watch the rope when you are lowering, it tends to go into the crack which might cause issues lowering.
Would get extra stars if more sustained.
Scramble up the same dirty slab that accesses Rolling Coal. A few intro moves get you below the flaring hand crack in a 7 foot roof. Jam past good pods until the crack pinches down to fingers at the lip. Long pulls between perfect fingerlocks with tough feet lead to a strange handjam and some much appreciated face holds. A few easier moves gain a large horizontal break. Traverse left to the finish of Rolling Coal.
Watch the rope when you are lowering, it tends to go into the crack which might cause issues lowering.
Would get extra stars if more sustained.
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