Iím negotiating with Stuart to re-engineer this route, but until it is, I would not recommend it (even the Ruckmans gave it no stars). RVM begins by climbing past two rusty blades (the second half-driven in), via a somewhat contrived line a body-length right of a wide crack, then steps over the wide crack to another rusty blade. Above are two bolts, the second of which is hard to clip and obviously placed to force the climber to avoid using a broken corner to the left Ė but which youíll probably end up using anyway because the face climbing to the right is stout and scary.
Approach as for Le Rap et Tap and Wealth of Nations. From the tree at the base of those routes, third or fourth class up the slab above past Major Tomís arÍte until you see the rusty blades; set up a belay from cams where convenient.
Five draws, a short sling to girth-hitch the second blade, and maybe some cams (micros to 1 inch) to protect the corner above the last bolt (Stuart seemed to recall doing this as a sport route, so, if you really want to sack up...). Ends at the bolt and slung flake shared by Major Tom, Le Rap, and Wealth of Nations.
|By John Steiger|
Aug 30, 2013
With SRís permission, this route has been re-engineered, bumping it up to two stars, maybe even three for some, and making it a bona fide sport route (only draws needed). Three new bolts were added, two before the original bolts and one after, making staying on the face and out of the broken corner more viable Ė although maintaining discipline and staying on the face ups the grade a letter or two. One of the fixed pins remains for those die-hards who want to experience the original line, but you might want to bring a big cam for the wide crack that the original line crosses (it'll make sense when you see it).