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Routes in Wall Of Tiers
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Diagonal Connection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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First Time, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Golden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lowe Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Native Utard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Panty Shield T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Realization T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Retriever S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shield, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Soak It Insideher T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stay Free T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Sword, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Utahpia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Chris Harmston - Summer 2002 |
| Page Views: | 1,107 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Jun 25, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jim Clarke, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
Realization? But of what? Maybe of the fact that the minimalistic bolting approach the developers used on the wall is perfect, leaving you to face climb a ways above awesome gear placement instead of clipping bolt after bolt?
I had my doubts about said approach when I could only spot 3 of the 5 bolts that supposedly protect the route. Fear not I thought, they're probably hiding over a bulge... Famous last words.
Scamper up an easy start to reach a laser-cut .75 crack disappearing behind a monster flake. A couple of ring locks and a bolt later, said flake will spit you out of the safety of its insides and onto the blank face. An exciting lieback past a second bolt (clip long) will deposit you in an alcove under a roof. Follow standard extraction procedures to get out of the hole and surmount the roof after clipping the 3rd bolt. Regroup, recover and come to terms with the fact that there will be no more bolts before casting off into the mellow upper face, placing gear in horizontals and loving life despite the occasional patch of lichen finding its way in your eyes.
If you've climbed 5.15a (who hasn't) this route will certainly remind you of its French Sharma-esque éponyme - it's definetly on par when it comes to classic status.
I had my doubts about said approach when I could only spot 3 of the 5 bolts that supposedly protect the route. Fear not I thought, they're probably hiding over a bulge... Famous last words.
Scamper up an easy start to reach a laser-cut .75 crack disappearing behind a monster flake. A couple of ring locks and a bolt later, said flake will spit you out of the safety of its insides and onto the blank face. An exciting lieback past a second bolt (clip long) will deposit you in an alcove under a roof. Follow standard extraction procedures to get out of the hole and surmount the roof after clipping the 3rd bolt. Regroup, recover and come to terms with the fact that there will be no more bolts before casting off into the mellow upper face, placing gear in horizontals and loving life despite the occasional patch of lichen finding its way in your eyes.
If you've climbed 5.15a (who hasn't) this route will certainly remind you of its French Sharma-esque éponyme - it's definetly on par when it comes to classic status.
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