||Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1500', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Rick Cox, Gary Wolkoff 1992|
|Page Views: ||860|
|Submitted By: ||Dru on Aug 13, 2009|
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Pitch 10 of Reality Check
An awesome climb established ground-up on lead. The crux pitch (p5) is significantly harder than the rest of the climb and features sustained 5.10+ climbing with a runout of >15 meters. Long falls are commonplace on this pitch. The combination of the lower pitches of Yak Crack with the upper pitches of this climb gives a four-star classic "Yak Check" with a more consistent level of difficulty.
Scramble up easy slabs right of Yak Crack to start.
p1-4: 5-6 to 5.8 slab climbing with a couple of short corners.
p5: the business. 7 bolts in 50m. Climb up, following the bolts. Note that depressions (stances) may be easier to see and had towards than the bolts themselves. Near the top, after surviving the sustained runout crux, move right into a left-facing corner and belay at its top.
p 6-7: 5.7-5.8 right facing corners lead to the pinnacle belay on Yak Crack.
p8: head left out of Yak Crack, aiming for a long wide flake. Undercling this flake to its end, turn the end, stand on it and then move left to a cave. There is a possible belay in the cave (and possible squeeze-through) but it is best to face climb out the right side of the cave and up to a good ledge 20 feet higher with a bolted belay.
p9: gingerly balance left across the detached flake forming the cave, and up to the base of a long arch
P10: climb a long right-facing flake corner to a bolt belay
P11: face climb (upper crux) right from the belay and up to a bolt, then past more bolts left into a corner. Follow the corner to its top, then face climb rightwards across face features and flakes to a belay.
P12: climb a slab off the belay past bolts to a tree ledge. Originally rated 10a but more like 5.8 now the lichen is gone.
p13: 4th class slab to trees. Scramble easily upwards or rap off from here.
Approach up the climbers trail from the highway, 300m/30 minutes.
The route can be rappelled, but a walkoff is faster and safer. There is sometimes a snowpatch to negotiate at the top of the descent; otherwise it takes about an hour to walk back down to the base, vs. 2 hrs plus to rappel back down.
Full rack to 3" with long slings, and triples of finger size cams. Stiff shoes help with the sustained smearing on the crux pitch.