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 ADVANCED
The Mace
Select Route:
Blood,Sweat, and Fears T 
Bruce Carson Memorial Route T 
Original Route T 
Rappel Route TR 
Real Rappel Route T 
Webster/ Becker Variation T 
Wind, Sand, and Stars  T 

Real Rappel Route 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Baxter, Ross Hardwick, Gordon Douglass
Page Views: 675
Submitted By: Larry Coats on Sep 25, 2010

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Tim Coats on the second pitch crux, while another ...

Description 

A high-quality and historic route- the second one to climb the Mace. As the name describes, the route follows the line of the rappels from the second-highest tower of the Mace.

Pitch 1: Climb the obvious crack that leads to the ledge below the notch between the first and second towers. Increasingly delicate stemming leads to the thin crux (5.10), which is well-protected on thin cams and wires. The crack widens back to hand-sized above, and easier climbing leads to the belay.

Pitch 2: This pitch is the physical opposite of Pitch 1- burly crack climbing leads to the wide-fists crux at a bulge half way up the tower. Fight through the bulge (5.10), then pull into easier climbing in the chimney and off-width above.

Protection 

The full Sedona complement: from thin cams and medium wires for the first pitch, and the wide stuff (to 5") for the second.


Photos of Real Rappel Route Slideshow Add Photo
Scott Baxter leading the crux of the first pitch of the Rappel Route on a repeat ascent (the second ascent)- late '70s.
Scott Baxter leading the crux of the first pitch o...
Tim Coats leads the crux of the second pitch of the Rappel Route.
Tim Coats leads the crux of the second pitch of th...
Ross Hardwick follows the first pitch of the Rappel Route on the second ascent.
Ross Hardwick follows the first pitch of the Rappe...

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