Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 785 total · 7/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Aug 4, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description Suggest change

If you are an aspiring or accomplished five ten climber be sure to add this to your Black Hills wish list. A slabby black start with just one or two small, tweaky holds leads to a ton of super huge pockets, ledges, and jugs.

This is a long route with quite a few thought provoking moves that happen after good rests. Once you see blonde rock, move left of the bolt line to grab left handed sidepulls for damn near the whole climb. Stay cool when you encounter a well-bolted, bulgy crux in the top three fourths of the route that requires power and just enough bravery to keep it real.

Gain the anchors using the dragon teeth holds and don't be afraid to reach as high as you can, make a high step, and clip the anchors at your chest. The moves and holds are all there. You will definitively want to milk this one for all its worth.

Location Suggest change

Left most route on the Slim Shady Pillar. (Left of the Original Route that is listed in Cronin's new guidebook)

NOTE! This is a face climb. Entering the chimney around the left hand corner is not recommended.

Protection Suggest change

Take a dozen quick draws. Anchors are open.

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