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Lost Orbit Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Inch, The S 
Grin and Bear It T 
Hannibal Lefter T 
Hubble S 
Longest Yard, The S 
Lost Highway S 
Lost Orbit S 
Love at First Bight T 
Lunar Eclipse S 
Nowhere To Go But Down S 
Real Men of Genius S 
Road Crew S 
Silly Millimeter S 
Slacker S 
Sloping Beauty S 
Stand Up Comedy S 
You Know What I'm Going To Do To You? T 

Real Men of Genius 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chuck Scott, Chris Miller, Loren Scott & Pete Paredes, August 2003
Page Views: 1,053
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 31, 2006

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Susan at the anchors on Real Men of Genius (5.10a)...

Description 

A short, kinda grainy left-facing corner leads to a ledge below a smooth green face. Clip a high bolt and make a fingery traverse left with technical footwork to a good edge and a break below a small roof. Undercling out right and weave your way along the upper face on sloping ledges.

Enjoyable moves on this varied and technical outing.

Location 

Just right of Slacker and 25' left of Nowhere To Go But Down is this climb up a smooth face with a greenish tinge.

Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors


Photos of Real Men of Genius Slideshow Add Photo
Making the span on Real Men of Genius (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Making the span on Real Men of Genius (5.10a), Hol...
Slacker (5.10c) on the left and Real Men Of Genius (5.10a) on the right.
BETA PHOTO: Slacker (5.10c) on the left and Real Men Of Genius...
Helen Shull attempting the tricky crux of Real Men of Genius.
Helen Shull attempting the tricky crux of Real Men...

Comments on Real Men of Genius Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 30, 2008

Good hands and "marginal feet" - that sums it up. If you can read the rock (unlike I did) you'll float this lower section.