Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This really is not a new route but a variation to two already existing great routes. Climb "Breakfast Of Champions" for a few moves clip the fixed wire and traverse right through the steep blank looking rock to the end of "Captain Crunch" just below the last bolt (FA chose to skip the bolt) on the route. Then climb the last 15 feet of Captain Crunch.
The Pick Pocket Wall.
Bring a small RP, a few small BD wires and a grey Metolius FCU and run it out.
BTW- the route would not really be "R" if you clip the bolt on CC (maybe only pg-13), but Matt decided that it would be a better route if it was put up with all natural gear. Also, double ropes really help, since the pro in the BoC corner and the pro after the traverse to CC are at the same height.