Real McCoy 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | John J. Glime on Sep 25, 2004 |
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After the lower slaby face the middle section has ...
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Description This is a really fun route, I am not sure why I am not giving it 3 stars... perhaps because I liked Main Crack so much.
It is 5.7, but the moves are tenuous in places, and it is exciting for a bolted route.
This climb starts about 30 feet up hill from the Main Crack and climbs the face following 4 bolts until you reach a left facing corner. This corner (which turns into a crack as it approaches the two bolt anchor) takes small cams and nuts.
Protection There are 5 bolts, plus a couple of medium to large nuts for the section after the last bolt..
Two bolts/chains for an anchor. I rapped with a 60 meter rope and set up a toprope easily.
BETA PHOTO: 21 The Real McCoy 5.7
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By Lee Jensen
Feb 15, 2005
rating: 5.7+
| This route is doable without any trad gear. However, the bolts are fairly far apart and the first couple clips might make you nervous unless you climb well above this level. There is definitely the possibility of a nasty crater fall. |
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Aug 26, 2006
| 5 bolts before the flake on top. I placed two nuts after the last bolt (and clipped the manky old piton). |
By Alex Headman
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.7
| We climbed this a couple weeks back. There isn't a pin in the route anymore, the only fixed protection is the 4 bolts, which was a bit of a shocker. Be sure and bring some nuts to protect the final 30-40 feet. |
By AJ Dexter
From: Portland, OR
Sep 5, 2008
| There isn't a pin anywhere that I could find on the final section after the fifth bolt. I placed a #7 BD stopper to protect. |
By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Oct 5, 2008
| Really fun climb, and more thought-provoking that most 5.7s. Not a gimme at the grade. As others have said, the piton is no longer there. I placed a nut and a cam in the crack above the bolts. The spacing between the bolts may cause a beginner leader's pulse to quicken a bit, especially if you're used to the close spacing of newer routes. All in all, a great climb! |
By Jordan Harmer
Apr 1, 2012
| Climbed this yesterday without any trad gear. It was doable, but perhaps not the best idea; the bolts were fairly spaced, as others have mentioned, especially the last one. Probably 20-25 ft between the last bolt and the chains. Anchor bolts starting to look a little rusty, but still solid. I don't think I'd climb this again without a few nuts on my rack. |
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