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Cake Boulder 
Corridor, The 
Damocles Boulders, The 

Real Lost Canyon 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Will Anglin on Nov 8, 2011

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Roy working The Sword.

Description 

RLC is a section of sandstone cliff-line with some boulders just outside of Gunnison. This area is not to be confused with Lost Canyon which is further up 135. The sandstone here is really brittle. Some of the rock is amazing, but you will quickly learn which types of holds and features exceed the rock's holding power.

This area has good bouldering and some really short sport and trad routes. The main draws to this area are: its proximity to Gunnison, it gets lots of sun (good in the winter), the rock is pretty unique compared to a lot of the surrounding areas, and it has a good concentration of difficult problems.

There are two obvious clusters of boulders split by a wash. Past the second cluster is where the cliff gets taller and the routes start.


Getting There 

From Gunnison: Head North on 135, take a right onto the frontage road, keep right onto a dirt road. Most of the better quality rock is a few hundred yards past the firing range on the left.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Real Lost Canyon:
Pod People   V2-3     Boulder, 12 feet   The Corridor : The Main Corridor
Trundle Master   V4 R     Boulder, 20 feet   The Corridor : Widowmaker
Kuato   V5     Boulder, 12 feet   The Corridor : The Main Corridor
Somber Thoughts   V8     Boulder, 10 feet   Cake Boulder
The Sword   V8     Boulder, 15 feet   The Damocles Boulders
Seventh Day   V8     Boulder, 10 feet   The Corridor : Fire Boulder
The Plague   V9     Boulder, 12 feet   The Damocles Boulders
Burning Planets (Project)   V9     Boulder, 10 feet   Cake Boulder
Balance of Power   V10 PG13     Boulder, 15 feet   The Corridor : Widowmaker
Browse More Classics in Real Lost Canyon

Featured Route For Real Lost Canyon
Caleb working Balance of Power.

Balance of Power V10 PG13  CO : Gunnison : ... : Widowmaker
Sit start with your right hand in a small, 3 finger crimp and your left hand on a flat side-pull edge a few feet left. Bump left to the arete, bump left agin to a good sloper on the arete. Then make powerful compression and undercling moves up the arete to a scary topout over a bad landing....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


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By Will Anglin
From: Sykesville, MD
Nov 16, 2011

Here is a short video of some classic problems in RLC:

By 1rsties4life
From: CO
Feb 28, 2012

I can remember climbing here in the mid '90s. Courtney Scales showed it to me, and he and I used to go here mid winter and do the highball faces in the sun when we were desperate to touch some stone. There's a face that was shot at a bunch with bullet holes on the far right side of the cliff, and we would always try to climb the bullet holes. It looks like you guys might be strong enough to actually do it.

Another story is a couple of months after climbing in the Black and breaking my left big toe from trundling a rock on it 10' from the rim. Courtney and I went to RLC and cleaned out underneath a low roof. I was pushing a boulder out of the way that rolled back on that same toe and crushed it. It hasn't been able to bend since, and now I have to wear one shoe larger than the other. Nice work reviving an area and sending some hard routes.

By patrick donahue
Oct 22, 2012

Anyone know any details on the roped climbing about 200 yards climbers right of this area? Went to scout it out today and only found 4 anchors, 2 of which where for sport routes and the other 2 for trad.