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Real Black Velvet 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dave Russell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,882
Submitted By: Dave Russell on Nov 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Real Black Velvet, Dave Russell.

Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The start of the route begins to the right of "Ramp o' Stone" at the base of the obvious black, white and green water streak. Climb past 3 bolts to the "pod" and prepare for the crux through the bulge. Follow bolts up the white gator skin to a no hands rest. The last bolt protects the exciting mantel move onto the ramp/bolted anchors. Aesthetic line with great movement.

Protection 

9 bolts + anchors/rap rings. All bolts were placed on lead.


Photos of Real Black Velvet Slideshow Add Photo
Dave Russell drilling on the first ascent.
Dave Russell drilling on the first ascent.
Andre Fiedler sticks it out.
Andre Fiedler sticks it out.
Bearing down at the crux.
Bearing down at the crux.
This is an awesome looking line!
This is an awesome looking line!
Jes Meiris.
Jes Meiris.
Slade Bradbury on REAL BLACK VELVET, Jed Hemming i...
Slade Bradbury on REAL BLACK VELVET, Jed Hemming i...
Caleb on Real Black Velvet.
Caleb on Real Black Velvet.
Kelly Hartman at the crux.
Kelly Hartman at the crux.
The stretch move, if you're short....
The stretch move, if you're short....

Comments on Real Black Velvet Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 4, 2009

Really nice 5.11 route.
Photos do it no justice, striking line with crazy scales.
I wussied and grabbed draws at anchor, silly mantel.
Still dirty a bit in bottom half, needs more traffic.

Thanks for bolting this one, Mr. Russell!
By phil wortmann
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Feb 22, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Props for a sick line Mr. Russell. Loved every bit of it. This one has a little of everything, from flaring cracks, steep shit, and thin slab. Got the on-sight, but barely. It had me shaking.
By Jason Haas
Dec 15, 2010

The nut on the bolt at the bulge was really loose last week. I tightened it as much as possible by hand, but it could probably use a little torque of a wrench even still. Didn't have one with me, sorry.
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Aug 18, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

There are now 2 or 3 spinners on this thing. If anyone plans on doing this route, I would bring a wrench & tighten the bolts. They need it badly.
By vdzsteaz
From: Denver, CO
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Still a couple of spinners. Nice route but a little dirty in places, but it doesn't distract from the fun climbing.