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Ready for ReedR 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: N. Beidleman, 2001
Page Views: 88
Submitted By: Alvaro Arnal on Aug 8, 2011

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Description 

From the guide: "Start left of Crystal Grip, in the corner. Pass an old piton, then branch left out obvious crack system. Turn the corner, then pass straight up the headwall. The top is protected with small cams."

This route has fun moves from the ground all the way through turning the corner. The headwall above this is the crux; nest a couple of cams in the vertical crack down low and run it out a bit with one more small cam right before the crux moves.

There is no bolt anchor at the top and not many options to build a gear anchor. Belay at the big tree about 30 feet back from the cliff that has 2 old slings on it. If you rap down from this tree, you need a 70m rope to reach the ground. Otherwise, move over to the Crystal Grip anchor and rap from there with a 60m.

Location 

Walk up from the road to the start of Crystal Grip. The corner to the left is the start; look for piton about 15 feet up.

Protection 

Standard rack; small cams for the top headwall; 1 (very old) piton at start.


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By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From: Aspen, CO
Aug 8, 2011

I'm wondering if I was a bit off route and too far right on the top headwall of this route. Once I turned the low corner, I found myself in a shallow, left-facing dihedral that I climbed to a large band of pebbly, crumbly rock. I was run out about 15 feet from the corner at this point, and there was only a small, vertical crack that took a #0 C3 but that I couldn't put a lot of trust in because of the rock quality. Do sketchy moves past this cam, and then run out to the top from there. These crux moves felt at least 10+ish to me.... Was I too far right? Going left into other crack systems seemed to put me on the easier routes to the left. Anyone know?