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L to R R to L Alpha
Walk your way up a ramp and through some holds in the crack to a jug right at the lip of the overhang. Crank up and throw out left to a sidepull, continuing up the face on a couple small crimps. Short but sweet.
From the parking lot, walk along the ridge and drop down at a weakness about halfway along the trail to the North Slabs/Nipple Wall. The route is on the ridge near the entrance to the Hell Cave, directly uphill from the Pitch Penny boulder.
Crappy landing. Bring a least one decent sized pad and a spotter.