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Reach For The Sky T 

Reach For The Sky 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Palen and Dennis Harrington 2002
Page Views: 444
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

A tremendouse gear route on an unlikely face that climbs like a steep, sport climb.

Climb the first 10' of the often wet corner ("Buffalo Bob") placing a key 3" piece. Traverse right about 8 feet when large incuts appear. Gain a nice foot ledge, and rest.

Continue up the face, passing a pin in a crack that breaks a steep bulge (crux--reachy). Move quickly up to a welcomed stance, trend left then back right, and finish up steep rock to a set of drop-ins.

Location 

The face just to the right of the obvious splitter handcrack of "Buffalo Bob".

Protection 

Small gear, plus one ea. of 1"-3".


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By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
May 18, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The crux is definitely reachy, but it is pretty short lived. In all, I thought this is soft for 10b, but I think I was aided by being of average height. The hard part in my mind was some of the gear was tricky (lobe orientation, etc.)
By Derek Doucet
Jul 19, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Very fun gear protected jug hauling on a nice steep wall!
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Nov 11, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a steep, exciting and well protected gem of a climb that is uncharacteristic of adirondack climbing. Its a little pumpy, but no move is super hard. The corner can be kind of heady when its wet and slimey, but there's abundant gear through that section, so its still very much worth doing even if the start is wet.