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Re-slinging cams with double length slings- opinions?
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By NickinCO
From colorado
Aug 4, 2011
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Unless the line is completely straight I always attach a trad runner to my cams, I normally find myself carrying 12-14 trad runners (yosemite runners, or whatever your lingo is). I can't help but think I would save a lot of weight in extra racking biners/trad runners if I had all my cams re-slung with double length slings like what Yates offers-

yatesgear.com/climbing/slings/...

Has anyone done this? Did you find yourself carrying quite a few less trad runners? At only $6 a pop I think the cost would be worth it. I rack all my cams except for the micros on the same carabiner and it's definitely a lot of extra weight that isn't being used for other than racking purposes, I've tried racking multiple cams on the same biner and I'm not a fan of it in the bigger sizes. Let's not let this turn into a debate about whether or not you attach runners to your cams.

-Nick

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By d e
From Reno, NV
Aug 4, 2011
Twin Lakes
I had it done to a set of aliens (through yates), honestly it's not long enough to really extend your placement, most of the time I still end up using a trad draw

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By Pete Spri
Aug 4, 2011
When you say "double length" I'm assuming you are talking about the way that DMM slings their cams, and not putting a 48" runner on them?

If this is what you're talking about, I did this with one of my cams (metolius supercam, small).

Couple things to keep in mind.

1. They hang longer. If you want it to be 12" extended, then you'll have it 6 when short, which is longer than the standard 4" length. If you go for shorter than 6", the extension really doesnt seem like it's adding that much (ie, if you just double the 4" sling, 8" really isn't that much... you'll probably need a full length sling still).

2. If you do go with the extended version with a twist, you should know that it lowers the stength by about 2kNs, according to what Metolius warned me. Something to consider.

3. If you are considering this, you may just consider a tripled runner, ie a full length one. The "problem" with this is having to take more time to re-triple (~18-20" is what you want) it through the cam, which usually requires 2 free hands (may or may not be an issue depending on what route you are doing).

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Aug 4, 2011
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Spri wrote:
When you say "double length" I'm assuming you are talking about the way that DMM slings their cams, and not putting a 48" runner on them? If this is what you're talking about, I did this with one of my cams (metolius supercam, small). Couple things to keep in mind. 1. They hang longer. If you want it to be 12" extended, then you'll have it 6 when short, which is longer than the standard 4" length. If you go for shorter than 6", the extension really doesnt seem like it's adding that much (ie, if you just double the 4" sling, 8" really isn't that much... you'll probably need a full length sling still). 2. If you do go with the extended version with a twist, you should know that it lowers the stength by about 2kNs, according to what Metolius warned me. Something to consider. 3. If you are considering this, you may just consider a tripled runner, ie a full length one. The "problem" with this is having to take more time to re-triple (24") it through the cam, which usually requires 2 free hands (may or may not be an issue depending on what route you are doing).


I didn't think of it hanging lower... damn. I figured it was too good to be true or they'd all come like that. Thanks for the response. Has anyone tried getting yates to do 5"/10"? That might be more tolerable since I normally rack on my harness and 10" is also close to the length of an extended runner.

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By Pete Spri
Aug 4, 2011
Nick Mardirosian wrote:
I didn't think of it hanging lower... damn. I figured it was too good to be true or they'd all come like that. Thanks for the response.

I had a couple of the tripled runners on a few metolius cams. It was great for saving runners, but as a second, you had to throw them over your shoulder, then re-rack them at the belay when both of your hands were free.

If I were to do this again, I'd go for some tripled ones, but I'd only have them on a second set of cams for more alpine style climbing.

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By Larry S
Aug 4, 2011
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
If considering it on camalots, read here first .

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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Aug 4, 2011
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credi...
I like the three length options of a traditional 24" trad draw, tripled, doubled, and single. This gives you a better option of keeping the line straight but not sacrificing so much extra fall. It may not seem like much, but a few inches is sometimes the difference between ledging-out. Never felt like the trad draws were the biggest contributor of weight. So I would never consider reslinging longer than the standard 4-6" size. The cams weigh the most by far and this especially the case if you are using BD. The metolius powercam/tcu is much lighter than the equivalent BD and master cams. Carrying tri-cams instead of the extra equivalent sized cams is a huge weight savings. Also, what biners are you using? I found the biners to be the biggest contributors of bulk and went with a lighter more narrow I-beam style biner. The Misty Cadillac also helped reduce the bulk by spreading the gear over 6 loops instead of the traditional 4.

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Aug 5, 2011
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Larry S wrote:
If considering it on camalots, read here first .



ahhh I forgot about that. Looks like I'll suck it up leave them as is.

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By Sam Stephens
Aug 11, 2011
Top half of Melifluous
Nick Mardirosian wrote:
I didn't think of it hanging lower... damn. I figured it was too good to be true or they'd all come like that. Thanks for the response. Has anyone tried getting yates to do 5"/10"? That might be more tolerable since I normally rack on my harness and 10" is also close to the length of an extended runner.



They don't have to hang lower, just clip the thumb loops to your harness instead of the slings.

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