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Routes in The Anvil
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Fistful of Steel T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hammer Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Iron Age T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Razor's Edge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Alam and Roumph |
| Page Views: | 720 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Alam on Feb 18, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This 4 pitch route climbs the lower face of the Anvil to connect with the striking SW arete - crack before finding in a right facing dihedral. P1 and P3 and P4 are very nice. P3 is "Sandia at its worse" - blocky and loose. Can do P3 and 4 for a nice 5.9 outing.(See Topo)
P1 (***) start at base of clean face in dihedral that forms the left side of a distinct petestal. Climb up and then move left to arete to a small ledge, step right back (5.10 crux) to arete and follow up to 2 bolt belay.
P2 Short pitch: loose and blocky - aiming for the base of the stunning crack on the arete. Has a tendecy to ruin the rest of the climb.
P3: climb this flake crack by lie backing for ~ 60 feet (5.8-) to the 2 bolt belay. Eats #4 Camelots - would be strenuous, except the flake has a perfect foot ledge every 10 feet to shake out and place pro.
P4: Climb Straight up from belay, (5.9) then drift left on a seam/ramp, until you can fight your way back to large right facing dihedral finishing on top where you rigged your first rappel.
P1 (***) start at base of clean face in dihedral that forms the left side of a distinct petestal. Climb up and then move left to arete to a small ledge, step right back (5.10 crux) to arete and follow up to 2 bolt belay.
P2 Short pitch: loose and blocky - aiming for the base of the stunning crack on the arete. Has a tendecy to ruin the rest of the climb.
P3: climb this flake crack by lie backing for ~ 60 feet (5.8-) to the 2 bolt belay. Eats #4 Camelots - would be strenuous, except the flake has a perfect foot ledge every 10 feet to shake out and place pro.
P4: Climb Straight up from belay, (5.9) then drift left on a seam/ramp, until you can fight your way back to large right facing dihedral finishing on top where you rigged your first rappel.
Location
Located north of Hammer Time and south of the route Storm Rider(? - I am sure I have that name wrong) - Rap. #1 Rappel in to N/W facing dihedral (NO fixed gear - please remove slings on this top rappel when you finish route) - 200 feet to a 2 bolt anchor. Rap #2 Rappel down arete through blocks to another 2 bolt anchor (180 feet). Rap #3 - 200 feet to gully defining face on climbers left. (We had another rappel off to the climbers right to reach the true bottom of this formation, but is not needed).
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