Razor's Edge 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Kent Wheeler, Rush Bowers: 1992 |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Nov 13, 2007 |
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Approach Most climbers will probably access this by descending from Crescent Crack but you can also access it by climbing The Ross Connection or climbing Short Corner and continuing up some loose 5.7 G cracks directly below Razor's Edge. The route climbs tiny edges up a vertical face immediately right of The Ross Route.
Route Description Start: You can set up a natural belay on the big ledge left of the route's start. You can also pretty safely belay with no anchor at all if you stay down in the alcove. You can also anchor to the 2-bolt/chain station at the start of the route.
The crux is above bolt 2. But it is sustained. The best you can do for natural gear to back the 2-bolt station on top is thread a runner through some nearby pinched rocks.
Protection A 2-bolt/chain station, 6 bolts and a 2-bolt/Fixe trad anchor station.
By tenesmus
Nov 14, 2007
| Another one I've always wondered about. Is there a natural belay at the bottom or top? Is it pretty easy to get to from the Ross Connection? And how hard is the runnout on Ross anyway? I always wanted to do that but couldn't see around the corner to look at it. Seems like it should be a great way to do something higher on the buttress when there are slower parties up higher. |
By kent w
Feb 9, 2009
| I do not remember the belay at the bottom, it is ossible we placed one. We traversed in from the east side. I doubt we would have placed bolts if there was gear but it is possible as there was a fair amount of air time.
The belay at the top was two pins, It is pobably a good thing they were replaced.
kent |
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