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Rated three stars in the DCA, this is an excellent moderate with a great panoramic view of the valley.
There are two basic variations to start Razor Worm. The easy way is starting at a huge flake, work up the right side of the flake, then follow a crack system up the face. A more exciting alternative is left of the big flake (and a tree); boulder up on good holds and continue up through a chimney section and on to the crack system. A bulge toward the top is the crux; use either of two vertical cracks about three feet apart, or barrel-hug both. After surmounting the bulge, continue up on easier ground to anchors at the top of the cliff.
Starts about 10' left of Cake Walk.
Standard T-Wall rack -- small to medium gear. Rap from ring anchors at the top (new since a fire destroyed rap trees). A 60-meter rope may be just long enough.
JT pulling the crux of Razor Worm
Justin cruises through the last of the business on...
|By Danny Inman|
Dec 6, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Fun route. I remember the anchor being a tree with webbing (as of 12/05). Protects nicely with medium nuts.
From: Smyrna, Ga.
Dec 19, 2006
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
My favorite T-Wall route. Almost every move is classic.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Feb 12, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Great route, nice if you don't want a pumpy warmup. No way is it 5.9.
Mar 19, 2007
The tree burned down. New ring anchors on this guy, but still, watch those ends...Tie a knott...
a fallen dead tree kind of "blocks" the thin start now...
From: Decatur, GA
Mar 7, 2009
Finally got around to leading Razor Worm after all this time; what a fantastic route! The moves are fun and protection is plentiful. Don't miss this classic!
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Jun 22, 2010
Great climb, start off with a short chimney to the top of a block. Now climb a crack on left with an amazing edge on the right. This section could not be more fun. Climb to what you think is a spacious ledge below the crux crack. place some pro and crank the duel cracks. Amazing climb.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R
I found this route to be fairly terrifying- the hollow rock that comprises the first 20' of the meat of the route above the flake makes for iffy gear at best. Thankfully the crux protects well with a tiny cam and nut, but I still found this route to be not worth doing if I had the choice to do it again. I'm shocked it gets stars.
|By Tom Fralich|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 19, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Disagree with John. This route is definitely worth doing. Crux is fun with fine gear and the hollow area is easily protected below the suspect stuff and then immediately above. And this isn't the tricky part anyway.
|By Adam Macke|
Dec 19, 2010
#3 C4 goes nicely in hole behind the jug before crux.