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T-Wall East
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Razor Worm 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Peter Henley, Rob Robinson - 1985
Page Views: 4,232
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 20, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (94)
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Kevin Doiron on Razorworm.

Description 

Rated three stars in the DCA, this is an excellent moderate with a great panoramic view of the valley.

There are two basic variations to start Razor Worm. The easy way is starting at a huge flake, work up the right side of the flake, then follow a crack system up the face. A more exciting alternative is left of the big flake (and a tree); boulder up on good holds and continue up through a chimney section and on to the crack system. A bulge toward the top is the crux; use either of two vertical cracks about three feet apart, or barrel-hug both. After surmounting the bulge, continue up on easier ground to anchors at the top of the cliff.


Location 

Starts about 10' left of Cake Walk.


Protection 

Standard T-Wall rack -- small to medium gear. Rap from ring anchors at the top (new since a fire destroyed rap trees). A 60-meter rope may be just long enough.



Photos of Razor Worm Slideshow Add Photo
Justin cruises through the last of the business on Razorworm, 5.8, at T-Wall, December 2006. His neighbor is finishing Cakewalk, 5.10a.
Justin cruises through the last of the business on...
JT pulling the crux of Razor Worm
JT pulling the crux of Razor Worm
Comments on Razor Worm Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 25, 2014
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Dec 6, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fun route. I remember the anchor being a tree with webbing (as of 12/05). Protects nicely with medium nuts.

By jeffinatlanta
From: Smyrna, Ga.
Dec 19, 2006
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

My favorite T-Wall route. Almost every move is classic.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Feb 12, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great route, nice if you don't want a pumpy warmup. No way is it 5.9.

By 426
Mar 19, 2007

The tree burned down. New ring anchors on this guy, but still, watch those ends...Tie a knott...

a fallen dead tree kind of "blocks" the thin start now...

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Mar 7, 2009

Finally got around to leading Razor Worm after all this time; what a fantastic route! The moves are fun and protection is plentiful. Don't miss this classic!

By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Jun 22, 2010

Great climb, start off with a short chimney to the top of a block. Now climb a crack on left with an amazing edge on the right. This section could not be more fun. Climb to what you think is a spacious ledge below the crux crack. place some pro and crank the duel cracks. Amazing climb.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

I found this route to be fairly terrifying- the hollow rock that comprises the first 20' of the meat of the route above the flake makes for iffy gear at best. Thankfully the crux protects well with a tiny cam and nut, but I still found this route to be not worth doing if I had the choice to do it again. I'm shocked it gets stars.

By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 19, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Disagree with John. This route is definitely worth doing. Crux is fun with fine gear and the hollow area is easily protected below the suspect stuff and then immediately above. And this isn't the tricky part anyway.

By Adam Macke
Dec 19, 2010

#3 C4 goes nicely in hole behind the jug before crux.

By tlacny
From: Atlanta
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I lead this route for the first time after leading golden locks. Both are rated 5.8+ but in my opinion this route should be graded no higher than a 5.7+ or 5.8. Did the direct start into the small chimney. Very fun route with plentiful gear placement and lots of rest opportunities.

By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Feb 25, 2014

I was reluctant to lead this route, mostly due to its massive popularity and my own perception of it as not being particularly aesthetic. However, I am sure I was party to a secret desire to have done Razor Worm and Golden Locks, and I am glad I gave into it! While not characteristic of most of the routes at T-Wall, that is one of the things that makes this route so special. The rock is sharp but incredible, as are both the movement and position. I also agree with the above poster; this route is 5.7+, 5.8 at the most.

Anywho, why are you still reading this drivel? Go do this route! It may be best to attempt on a weekday though, unless you brought your hammock and pillow to pass the time while you wait in line. This route is almost always a mob scene, and after climbing it I understand why.