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Razor Burn 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1997
Page Views: 738
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 22, 2001

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Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The name says it all. Climbing on Razor Burn starts off the ledge 100ft above ground in the middle of the West facing yellow plate, any of several approach pitches can be used to gain the ledge. Done properly, a dicey 5.10 slab pitch might reasonably be called P1 of RB with the head wall pitch being P2. Just right of The Rampart Rage is a bolt line that follows a system of razor sharp flakes for close to 65 feet. I only chased this route on a top rope the day it was red pointed (AN), so the grading may be a little soft. I thought that there were at least four distinct 5.12/5.12+ cruxes that involved using the razors with enough delicacy that you didn't slice off your finger tips. Your feet are largely on very thin smears, and the reaches between razors are usually very long. The 20 feet of finishing moves over small overlaps bring the difficulty back to 5.10+, but the ride to this point is Devilish. I would raise a question about the long-term stability of the razor flakes. Most will hold up, but on some of these it is important to resist the temptation to pull out on the flakes. If your finger tips are up for it, this is an excellent line with kinesthetically pleasing movement.

Protection 

QDs only. This 80 foot line needs about a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 26, 2001

There is nothing like doing things wrong to make a route feel leagues more difficult.
By Chris Cavallaro
Jul 27, 2001

I've done this a few times, and IMHO it is sustained 12c, with one 12c/d move getting over a bulge mid-way up.
By slim
Administrator
Jul 30, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Very sustained sections where you have to do a lot of tweaky, precise moves in a row. Great rock.