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Raycreational Jug Use 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: EFR,Geir Hundal,Eric Ruljancich,'10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,114
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Going up to feel some Jugs!


Steep crack, corner, roof, bulges, and a wild move at an overhanging corner. Rock is not 100% but the solid pro can be found all the way up. The final moves are as fun as it gets. If you don't want to do the hard finish work right to a fun 5.7 chimney that doesn't climb like one.


To the right of the big overhang you first encounter is a crack/flake that curves right at a roof. above are two cracks this takes the left one. A bolted corner is just right of the start of this climb.


Trad rack with doubles up to yellow Camalot. A blue might help getting to the chains after the bolt. I save both reds for the upper half of the climb.

Photos of Raycreational Jug Use Slideshow Add Photo
Derek on his onsight
Derek on his onsight
Eric Murdock on the lower half of the route.  The ...
Eric Murdock on the lower half of the route. The ...
Joe onsites Raycreational Jug Use
Joe onsites Raycreational Jug Use

Comments on Raycreational Jug Use Add Comment
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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 25, 2010

this climb will surprise you with its quality. it's very consistant in difficulty until the ending crux, takes great gear, and the finish is just wild and fun. it's worth bringing a light rack down to the wall to do this route alone, more so if you do the other mixed lines here.

i used singles to #3 camalot and stoppers and had plenty of solid gear the whole way.

easy 5.10 until the final crux (11-), which is protected by a bolt.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2015

agree with geir, easy 10 till the crux and it climbs a lot better than it looks. most of the flake/crack is surprisingly solid and gobbles nuts in addition to some good cam placements. it's a pity the middle part is so crappy otherwise this might be a 4-star route.
By jaspur
From: tucson,az
Jul 23, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I'd like to give it 4 stars but I can't. Lil bit of suspect rock and a mediocre middle. Bottom section is 10a/b and super fun. I use a rack from .3-2 with an extra purple and red. Crux moves at the bolt are a hoot. I love this route. And marcys. Great warm ups for the lower if you can stand a few moves of 11
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