Steep crack, corner, roof, bulges, and a wild move at an overhanging corner. Rock is not 100% but the solid pro can be found all the way up. The final moves are as fun as it gets. If you don't want to do the hard finish work right to a fun 5.7 chimney that doesn't climb like one.
To the right of the big overhang you first encounter is a crack/flake that curves right at a roof. above are two cracks this takes the left one. A bolted corner is just right of the start of this climb.
Trad rack with doubles up to yellow Camalot. A blue might help getting to the chains after the bolt. I save both reds for the upper half of the climb.
|Comments on Raycreational Jug Use
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 25, 2010
this climb will surprise you with its quality. it's very consistant in difficulty until the ending crux, takes great gear, and the finish is just wild and fun. it's worth bringing a light rack down to the wall to do this route alone, more so if you do the other mixed lines here.
i used singles to #3 camalot and stoppers and had plenty of solid gear the whole way.
easy 5.10 until the final crux (11-), which is protected by a bolt.