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Pitch 1, 10c 140 feet
Start up easy face climbing to reach the superb fracture ahead. Place pro and jam and lieback the strenuous finger crack (crux). Continue up past a small dihedral, to a thin section through discontinous fractures. Angle left to the shared anchors with Squash Blossom.
Pitch 2, 5.9 150 feet
Head slightly left off the belay and climb a nice finger and hand crack up through a slightly tricky section, to easy low angle climbing to the anchor, there is an occasional 5.7 move or so.
For a nice finish head up the Great Escape to top out.
Starts up the obvious fracture 10 feet left of Yucca Flower Tower
Double set to #1 Camelot, 1 #2 & #3 Camelot optional, Small cams down to green C3, small nuts and micro nuts.
Above the layback to short, wide hands crux of the...
From: The 505
Jun 17, 2008
Although not critical for a 5.10 crack climber, a #4 Friend comes in handy at the brief section with fists. Throw it in and go--an awesome climb.
|By Ryan Curry|
Apr 22, 2011
This pitch is the real deal; quality from start to finish. You could get away leading this without RP's, standard thin wires would suffice. This was my climbing partner's favorite climb in the Sandias and my second favorite (after Squash Blossom).
|By Matthias Lang|
May 5, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
As the description says, I found the beginning very strenuous. Gear has to be placed from strenuous positions and no feet make for some insecure smearing moves. Nevertheless it's a nice classic. I loved the finger-locks on the beginning of the second pitch.