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Raw Tips 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 2007, Ian Osteyee, Justin McGiver, Shyloah Nilsen
Page Views: 827
Submitted By: Ethan Thompson on May 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Ethan on Raw Tips

Description 

Start at the lowest point of the cliff, making some delicate moves up to the first bolt at 15 ft.

Climb up past 3 bolts to a right facing corner with a crack in it. Bring a 0.5 Camalot or equivalent for the crack. Pull into a stance in an alcove, clip a bolt, and puzzle over where to go next.

This is an interesting route with several cruxes that are as much mental as physical.


Location 

Starts at the lowest point of the cliff, right of the route WMP.


Protection 

Bolts and 1 or 2 finger sized cams to .5.
Bolted anchors.



Photos of Raw Tips Slideshow Add Photo
July 2011.  Good route - name is very appropriate.
July 2011. Good route - name is very appropriate.
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By Mike Caruso
Dec 7, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Nice route where you get to stand on nothing and hold on to even less. Rock is "textured". Not one to criticize those who put the time and effort into bolting these routes, but bolt locations on this wall are questionable and detract from the great climbing.

By Chris Irwin
From: Silver Spring, Maryland
Jun 17, 2013

Not sure if this is an update... but this route is bolted as a sport rout and has rap hangers at the top. The first bolt is high up (~15ft) but you can get a small cam in the flake before it. other than that optional piece, no gear necessary.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Aug 10, 2014

Mike, in response to your bolting criticism (keeping in mind I am not the route setter) I found the bolting on the routes here are spot on for what one should expect. There's general community consensus rules for when a bolt is needed... like if it's X number of grades below the crux/route grade, bolting will tend to be more spread out. There's pros/cons to this strategy, but it isn't done to piss anyone off or make it dangerous that I can assure you. There's many in the route setting sport climbing community that feel we should be able to easily handle some slabby 5.6 moves on a 5.10b route.

The only arguably bad bolt I encountered was the ground fall potential when clipping the second bolt on WMP. However this is tempered by the fact your feet are on a small ledge and you can pretty much stand there hands free if needed.

If you sport climb elsewhere you will find many large, destination caliber crags (Owen's River Gorge comes immediately to mind) where bolts are placed only when needed and easy terrain is essentially a runout.