This is the second cliff, Ravens roost. Circa 2003
The cliff stands over 40 ft. or so high and about 75 feet wide and overhanging. Super featured, with a lot of climbing for such a compact area. An independent line every 4 or 5 feet if you want. Big horizontals, with great crimpers and juggy holds similar to climbing at the gunks. But the rock is peppered with weird pockets, that make it unique and very interesting climbing. Steep and pumpy, most routes are harder than 5.8- 5.9. Most could be trad led, but watch out for rock quality . Its mostly solid, with a few crumbly spots. All in a nice quiet wooded setting with no road noise. I call it ravens roost , as it had a nest full of fledgling ravens about 3/4 of the way up , last time i was there.
It's the same parking as Petro Cliffs, just a bit further down the blue trail. Trailhead is the tunxis trail off of greer road in burlington ct. Park at the land preserve gravel pull off by the pond. . Trail starts on pond side of road. follow trail next to pond. The hike in is about half hour to the first crag. Follow blue blazed trail right over the top of it. I'll call this the chimney cliff,as it has obvious chimney system in the center. The other crag is another ten minuits or so. Cross the stream at the remnants of the old dam follow blue trail a couple hundred yards further. Ravens roost can be seen in the woods off to the right if you look carefully.