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Raven Rock

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Nevermore T 

Raven Rock 


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Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 14, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Raven Rock, the route Nevermore (old school 5.9+R)...

Description 

Raven Rock is more of a Red River icon than it is a climbing Destination. On countless trips in the 80's and 90's people asked "what is that?" pointing upward, and for years I could not say much more than to give its name. Only years after climbing at the red did I ever climb on it. Many climbers never have. Notably, a few quality moderate lines escaped any ascents until the mid 1990's, but the crag seems, like fortress wall, to have remained primarily a trad wall and has not been bolted up.
The crag faces east and gets morning sun.
The most popular (a measured statement) climb at this cliff is "Nevermore, 5.9+" but there are other lines there that are recommended in the book. Beware, the cliff may lend to more adventure than security. The hanger-less bolts on "Nevermore" were total trash even 15 years ago.


Getting There 

Drive down Hwy 77 through town and through the Nada Tunnel and a few miles more, passing Military Wall and Left Flank to cross an old Iron Bridge. Park at a pull-off there and take your valuables with you. Cross the bridge back on foot and turn off on a river-side trail walking NW toward the obvious cliff in that direction. After a brief and casual walk, the trail will intercept an old rutted out road, more fit for a mountain bike than a car... Follow the road uphill (somewhat strenuous) until a trail leads up and left to the base of the cliff, arriving at the left side.


Climbing Season


1 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Raven Rock:
Nevermore   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Classics in Raven Rock

Featured Route For Raven Rock
Pitch 1 of Nevermore

Nevermore 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13  KY : Red River Gorge : Raven Rock
Nevermore strikes a line up an iconic RRG landmark. For the aspiring 5.9/5.10 adventure trad leader this will test your mettle. Standing on the steel bridge over Red River look west toward an imposing vertical face high above the valley. The top of Nevermore is the left arching crack that can be seen right of center.Nevermore can be climbed in 2-4 pitches depending on your rope length or pitch length preferences.Traditional pitch break up:Pitch 1: Climb a left facing chimney to a ledge. Pitch 2:...[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

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Sep 20Mfrp fall trail day
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By Kevin O'Connor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 29, 2010
CONDITION REPORT 

The hangerless bolts on Nevermore now have been replaced as of 11/2010.