Easily one of the best routes on Mount Lemmon. This route doesn't have a move harder than 11+ but it is has 130 feet of overhanging 5.10 and 5.11 climbing which makes is one of the most sustained at the grade on the mountain. The first set of anchors is for a single rope descent. If you stop at the first set of anchors the route is 5.11 or 11+.
On the Ravens near the top of Mt. Lemmon. It is on Raven B in the chimney between Raven B and Raven C. Descend the east side of the Ravens. See Squeezing the Lemmon II for the approach. The Start is the same as Swing Set 5.11 but takes the left hand bolt line. To get down with one rope (60M) lower to the first set of anchors. Clip in and untie, pull your rope, re-thread, retie your knot, then finish lowering to the ground.
May 2, 2007
In my opinion, one of the best single pitch sport routes I have ever done, anywhere. Steep, long and sustained, it works your brain as much as your arms. If you live in Arizona and climb 5.12 this is a must do.
Sep 12, 2010
Heard some smack from a punter snow climber today about this route. If you run into him don't listen to his totally unfounded complaints. I mean pick the right hold fer christ's sake and it won't fall off in your hand. Pretty simple strategy I think. Friggin mountaineers.
Mar 23, 2011
Looks like an amazing climb! I'm definitely going to sample this whenever I go out there next.
|By Jon Ruland|
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 26, 2011
"This route doesn't have a move harder than 11+"
your words. i can read them but they mean nothing to me.