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Raven Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Drew, Paul Base '76. FFA: Tuthill, Ellms '77
Page Views: 3,166
Submitted By: E thatcher on May 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Alden Pellett starting off the belay on the third ...

Description 

Raven Crack is an often overlooked extension to the popular route, Slow and Easy.

P1: Climb slow and easy to the 2 bolt belay. 5.8

P2: Head up and left to the right leaning chimney with ominous looking flakes. Chimney up using finger cracks in the flakes for protection and jams. Continue up the twin cracks on awesome lie backs and finger jams. A very fun and fully sustained pitch. The anchor is 2 fixed nuts and a pin. Lower off here or continue up for a third pitch. 5.9 60'

P3: Step around the corner and into the exposure where an awesome hand crack awaits you. Climb this till you reach the right side of the Duet buttress. Traverse left on easy 4th class to the two bolt belay on Duet Direct. 5.8, 140'

Location 

Above Slow and Easy, the prominent right angling hand crack on the left edge of the big wall section

Protection 

Standard rack. Doubles in the finger size may be appreciated for the 2nd pitch. Need 2 60M ropes to rappel down Duet Direct.


Photos of Raven Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Exposure on the start of pitch 3 of Raven Crack
Exposure on the start of pitch 3 of Raven Crack
The money pitch.
The money pitch.
Converse finishing pitch 2
Converse finishing pitch 2
Converse was excited to find a bomber hand jam jus...
Converse was excited to find a bomber hand jam jus...

Comments on Raven Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 13, 2011

this looks SICK! thanks for the photos to get me motivated
By Linnaeus
From: New England/ Baltimore
Oct 11, 2011

2nd pitch is loose until you get up into the chimney. Then it climbs superbly with solid hands and good pro until the top of P2. P3 has some very loose, terrible rock so be careful placing pro and be sure to call out if you knock anything loose. The traverse to the Duet anchors is also loose and you can just make the rap down on 60m doubles.
By burlap submariner
Nov 4, 2011

raven is awesome when linked up with sticky fingers, every pitch has great climbing, however all quite different.
By Jeffrey Dunn
Administrator
May 14, 2012

I disagree that the climbing on the second and third pitches "has some very loose, terrible rock". In fact, the cracks are superb and very high quality. After stepping left off the belay, head straight up the cracks aiming for a big ledge/stance on the right arete. A tricky move back left and some more crack climbing gets you to the 3rd/4th class traverse ledge. When you get to the end of the dirty ramp, you are standing 3 feet above the bolts on Duet Direct. I found two decent placements (one mid way and the other just above the belay) to keep the rope from dragging across the loose ramp and potentially knocking down rocks.
By Andrea Charest
Sep 21, 2012

This is such a fantastic route! P2 has such great moves- chimneying to a killer layback flake, great friction for feet, good pro. I wish the anchor at the top of p2 had a couple bolts... it would see a lot more traffic I think, if it had a more substantial anchor-- it's a piton and two tiny nuts with rusty wires right now. Anchor can be built or backed up with cams around the corner. Third pitch gives some awesome exposure with fairly mellow climbing and great gear. Top of the 3rd pitch we ended up rapping from a slung block- did some exploration to the top of the Triple S buttress but couldn't find an anchor-- Wormley's description of being 3 feet above the bolts would have been helpful! It worked, 2 raps to the ground, but be careful of knocking off lots of loose softball-sized rocks from the ledge.