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> Heart Leaf Bluff
Rave Party
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | M Crocker, J Robertson, 1993 |
Page Views: | 497 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Nick Russell on Oct 7, 2013 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
A good route up the right side of the Mescalito arete, with some great moves and a very airy feel. The start is from a semi-hanging stance on a small ledge above a 30m drop. The climbing through the crux is typical technical limestone, all sidepulls and underclings with very little for the feet. Unfortunately the experience is marred by some suspect rock, but most of it seems to have settled down now. Overall, a good Cheddar experience!
Steady climbing up to the second bolt then a devious crux sequence up to a jug and bolt 5. More steady climbing through a bulge gains a good rest below a short wall and another steep section. Pull through the steepness, past a cemented-piton (it would be safe to skip this) on good, but worryingly transient-looking holds. Another decent rest can be found out right before making final moves on improving holds to the finishing jugs and chains.
Steady climbing up to the second bolt then a devious crux sequence up to a jug and bolt 5. More steady climbing through a bulge gains a good rest below a short wall and another steep section. Pull through the steepness, past a cemented-piton (it would be safe to skip this) on good, but worryingly transient-looking holds. Another decent rest can be found out right before making final moves on improving holds to the finishing jugs and chains.
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