Balancy moves up beautiful pink and black limestone lead to a first set of anchors about 30 feet up. The second pitch connects a series of broken ledges and is considerably easier (5.8-ish), but still enjoyable and worth doing. This is a long, fun climb on excellent rock.
Right end of the Mall Wall, left of the chimney separating Mall Wall from Way Gone Wall.
3 bolts to Fixe rings, 4 more bolts to rings at top. Easy runout between lower anchors and the next bolt.
Use a 60m rope and/or rap twice to be safe.
|By Andrew Ryder|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 15, 2007
Anyone know the FA(s) for this route?
From: Casa do Cacete
Aug 10, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Second part was really fun, 60m just gets you down from the very top, watch ends or tie a knot.
From: Flagstaff, Az
Nov 7, 2011
Fun route that doesn't get nearly as much traffic as it deserves. Crux is after the first bolt. A good alternative if someone is on Mr. Slate, it's only a matter of time before that climb becomes one giant chalk/rubber streak anyway...