|Mule Hollow Wall
This is the first bolted climb to appear on The Sea Of Glass Wall. As Pat was one of the first climbers on this crag, we were both very impressed that this fine and fun (and mostly blank) right line had yet to have its flanks developed! The first 6 bolts were drilled on lead, but both of us felt the Ravages Of Time (which subsequently results with decreased boldness?) coaxed us into completing the drilling from above. Maybe too, hooks skittering off of the glass like quartzite had something to do with it, as well.
A very unique route with pockets and edges on excellent rock located on the steeper and smoother and crackless wall to the right of the pre-existing trad climbs SEA OF GLASS and GLASNOST.
This climb will prove popular if one is able to combine with other climbs in the area to compensate for the heinously steep grovel to the Mule Hollow Wall. Why don't climbers like zig zag type trail approaches? It's a burner, or again, maybe we were just feeling the Ravages Of Time?
Pitch #1: Follow about 10 bolts up the face to a two bolt belay. 5.9, 30m
Pitch #2: Up and left to a shallow hole past a few bolts then straight up to the final belay ledge. Adds more, but less spectacular, climbing to this unique climb. May be linked to first pitch for a longer climb. 5.7, 15m.
Rappel the route with one 60m rope.
Ravages Of Time starts up the shiny glass-like wall in front of a huge Doug Fir tree. The tree does not interfere with the climb at all.
QDs and a #2 or #3 Camalot may be useful near the top of the pitch.
BETA PHOTO: taken 4/4/13 - To show how much snow is currently ...
Aug 17, 2008
Didn't feel like a 9+ to me. Maybe if you are exhausted from the approach. Compared to Fowl Play on Bumblebee, supposedly a 9, this was quite easy. The candy cane tree is gone. Hike for about 20 minutes on the main trail, your left shoulder rubs a big boulder, then turn left. There was a cairn today at the turnoff. The talus field is pink stone with the trail running along the left.
|By James Garrett|
Oct 26, 2008
I sense you might have been on one of the upper Mule Hollow Wall routes. At least that is my guess, as I know of at least 5 different parties who have climbed it(who don't post on this climbing minority voice of MP) and most thought it was more like 5.10a, than 5.9?? I, too, have climbed Fowl Play....this one is at least as difficult.
I think it would be an easy mistake to make....The Sea Of Glass Wall is a bit obscure and off the beaten path....easy to miss, and hence why we were able to put up such a pleasant little route on this only until recently unclimbed section of rock. Sure is a nice place to get away from it all, though
|By Tristan Higbee|
May 28, 2009
Great route. 5.9+ seems right to me. It felt harder than Implorien. We combined the two pitches into one and it worked out well. Great moves, great rock, fun holds... Awesome.
|By Gary Taylor|
Jun 20, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
The first pitch is one of the most enjoyable pitches of this grade I have ever done in 30+ years of climbing. GREAT ROUTE!
Jun 20, 2011
This route is exceptional, probably a top-ten pitch in the canyon and would have lines if it were nearer the road. Makes me want to see a better approach trail put in for the last 5 minutes of hiking so I am more inclined to come back.
I suspect this is the zero-star 5.8 in the Ruckman guide that is described as using wires and tri-cams, though I'm not sure about that. Regardless, I would likely never have climbed it due to the zero-star rating, so congrats guys. My only complaint is the 5th bolt could be a foot or two to the left to better follow the flow through the best pockets on the route. Rating? 5.9-
|By D Argyle|
From: Englewood, CO
Sep 27, 2011
Another great route from Mr. Garrett. So many fun moves on this one.
Oct 31, 2012
This climb is amazing it has everything you could ask for. Agreed 5.9+ although at times felt solid 5.10.
Nov 8, 2012
@ ddriver: It's not Glasnost, but is close to it in spots. Glasnost is the R-most route on the wall and looks to be quite vegetated up higher where you'd find gear.
Apr 5, 2013
Absolutely loved this climb. I feel the rating is 9+ MAYBE 10 for a couple of moves and 9 for the majority. That first pitch is perfection!
|By Kevin A Lockwood|
May 4, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
This is a great 5.9 that rewards you after a terribly steep approach. The whole route is enjoyable, especially the first pitch.
Oct 3, 2013
Didn't really feel like a 5.9. The first section could be if you were that tired from the hike up, but there is really only one move that might trick you. The second pitch is short and it really is an easy 5.7. Climb this a few weeks ago and it was a fun little pitch to take some new bees out on. directions are kinda of sketchy to this place but then again what ones aren't on this website.