Raunchy 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy & Bill Goldner, Fall 1963 |
| Submitted By: | Big Perm on Nov 7, 2006 |
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description P1: Either boulder up to the pine ledge at 15', or if it's wet, walk around left. From the pine ledge, gain the right-facing corner, and make enjoyable moves to about halfway up it. Step left onto the face, then up and back towards the crack. Finish up the crack to the tree.
"Direct" variation: stay in the right-facing corner (5.9) instead of stepping left.
P2: The second pitch is also worth doing. A hardish move off the belay ledge leads up a shelved face to the overhang above. Traverse up and left to a fixed pin, then through the notch in overhang (crux) and up right until one can go up the face to the grand traverse ledge. Soft 5.8, but with thinnish pro on the (easy) face prior to the overhang.
Location 60 ft. right of the Dis-Mantel block,and behind a big tree; look for an obvious right-facing corner above a short overhang.
Protection Standard rack - make sure you have small pieces or small nuts. The tree has a rap station at ~80ft.
By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Apr 11, 2008
| A nice variation is to continue straight up after moving out of the corner to the obvious finger crack on nice white rock above. Surmount the overhang using the crack, then move right to the belay/rap tree. This is the top part of 'Stop the Presses, Mr. Williams!' |
By Gunkiemike
Oct 3, 2009
| Actually Tim, that is the route Osteopath, which Swain described as a distinct line at 5.6, but DW considers a variation to STP. Climbed a la Swain, it is the easiest route to the pine tree. I think Raunchy with the 5.9 direct "variation" (it was a later addition to the route; a tree stump blocked a direct line back in the day, forcing the detour onto the left face) is a *** pitch. |
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