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b. Jackie and friends
Routes Sorted
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5.10 Top Rope TR 
A-Gape T 
Ape and Essence T,TR 
Ape Call T 
Badcliff T 
Belly Roll T 
Betty T 
Blackout, The T 
Classic T 
Classy T 
Daydream T 
Dennis T 
Disco Death March T 
Habanero Balls T,TR 
Into Thin Hair T,TR 
Jackie T 
Jane T 
Jasmine T 
Matinee T 
Miss Bailey T 
P38 T 
Pebbles TR 
Pink Laurel T 
Raubenheimer Special T 
RMC T 
Roddy T 
Slightly Roddey T,TR 
Stirrup Trouble T 
Unsorted Routes:

Raubenheimer Special 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Krist and Wally Raubenheimer (1958ish)
Page Views: 1,184
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Pondering the crux.

Description 

Harder if shorter than 5' 9" or so.

P1 - Climb the rounded arete, then up right to a good ledge below a polished, 8-foot high,white face. Get good gear at your feet in the horizontal below the face. If you're tall, go straight up the face (crux) to the good horizontal at the top of the 8' high polished white face, plug in some gear, and pull the small bulge. If you're short, go left to the rounded nose, reach around left for a small crimp and step up. Then reach right to the good horizontal, place some gear, traverse a bit right and pull the small bulge. Continue up the nice face to a decent ledge.

P2 - (Rarely done) Climb straight up on broken rock to a nose on the left. Follow it to the top. Descend via the Radcliff or Uberfall downclimbs.

Variations - I prefer to traverse left from the P1 belay to the P2 belay tree of RMC and continue up the face from there. The traverse is sparsely protected, but very easy. You could also continue up P2 and P3 of Betty.

Location 

At a rounded arete, just left of the wide crack of Betty and about 60 feet right and up from the Jackie/Classic face.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack. The gear at the crux is bomber, but it's at you feet if you blow the move.


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By Mike Caruso
Apr 20, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Climbed this long ago and thought it stiff for the 5.6+ Swain's book gave it. I am tall and the crux moves are thin and slippery. Thank God for crystals and nubs.
By vanishing spy
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

This route is stiff for the grade, the crux is a blank face moving between horizontals. If you can't pull the move there is a tree directly behind you if you don't need the full value. It's possible to get to the top of the wall in one long pitch.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 3, 2010

Raubenheimer may or may not be stiff for its grade at 5.7, but it sure was stiff for its grade as a 5.5 when I first did it. My brother Paul and I were ready to break into 5.5 in 72 or so. We decided to do Dennis and Raubenheimer. Paul lost the coin toss (although we didn't know at first how badly he lost) and led Raubenheimer. I then led Dennis. So our first 5.5 was 5.7?

Similarly, and around the same time, I hitchhiked out to Boulder during Easter with my friend Steve Reiefenstuhl. One of the routes we did was Cozyhang on The Dome, rated 5.5 at the time. It's now rated 5.7, and the last crux feels more like 5.9 to me.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 15, 2011

Never ever thought I would lead this climb. At 5'2", it's tough for me to reach the really great horizontal above the slick slab. But, somehow, I manage to get my little fingers onto something and then I just pull, clip the pin and go.
By kenr
Jun 3, 2014

Lots of credit to gblauer for leading P1. The crux for taller people is a delicate move on the arete. But for somebody much less than 5'7" with normal reach, the next move after that is much harder than 5.7

For a better P2, I nominate aiming for the nose a bit left of Betty - (see "Left Direct Nose P2 variation" in the Comments under Betty).
By Dan Africk
From: Brooklyn, New York
Oct 27, 2014

If you plan to rap off the tree at the top of the first pitch- inspect the slings carefully, and bring extra 1" webbing with you- As of 10/26/2014 they were in dangerously bad condition and need to be replaced (one faded from sunlight, one severely frayed at the knot).

I used up my extra webbing reinforcement a tree on the previous climb(and I thought my friend had already checked the slings, so I didn't bring more), and it was almost dark, so I risked it and survived the rappel- But I wouldn't do that again. Lesson learned, always bring extra webbing when cleaning an anchor if you plan to rap off a tree!