Raubenheimer Special 5.7 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Krist and Wally Raubenheimer (1958ish) |
| Submitted By: | Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008 |
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Pondering the crux.
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2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Harder if shorter than 5' 9" or so.
P1 - Climb the rounded arete, then up right to a good ledge below a polished, 8-foot high,white face. Get good gear at your feet in the horizontal below the face. If you're tall, go straight up the face (crux) to the good horizontal at the top of the 8' high polished white face, plug in some gear, and pull the small bulge. If you're short, go left to the rounded nose, reach around left for a small crimp and step up. Then reach right to the good horizontal, place some gear, traverse a bit right and pull the small bulge. Continue up the nice face to a decent ledge.
P2 - (Rarely done) Climb straight up on broken rock to a nose on the left. Follow it to the top. Descend via the Radcliff or Uberfall downclimbs.
Variations - I prefer to traverse left from the P1 belay to the P2 belay tree of RMC and continue up the face from there. The traverse is sparsely protected, but very easy. You could also continue up P2 and P3 of Betty.
Location At a rounded arete, just left of the wide crack of Betty and about 60 feet right and up from the Jackie/Classic face.
Protection Standard Gunks rack. The gear at the crux is bomber, but it's at you feet if you blow the move.
| Comments on Raubenheimer Special |
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By Mike Caruso
Apr 20, 2008
rating: 5.7 PG13
| Climbed this long ago and thought it stiff for the 5.6+ Swain's book gave it. I am tall and the crux moves are thin and slippery. Thank God for crystals and nubs. |
By vanishing spy
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.8+ PG13
| This route is stiff for the grade, the crux is a blank face moving between horizontals. If you can't pull the move there is a tree directly behind you if you don't need the full value. It's possible to get to the top of the wall in one long pitch. |
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2010
| Raubenheimer may or may not be stiff for its grade at 5.7, but it sure was stiff for its grade as a 5.5 when I first did it. My brother Paul and I were ready to break into 5.5 in 72 or so. We decided to do Dennis and Raubenheimer. Paul lost the coin toss (although we didn't know at first how badly he lost) and led Raubenheimer. I then led Dennis. So our first 5.5 was 5.7?
Similarly, and around the same time, I hitchhiked out to Boulder during Easter with my friend Steve Reiefenstuhl. One of the routes we did was Cozyhang on The Dome, rated 5.5 at the time. It's now rated 5.7, and the last crux feels more like 5.9 to me. |
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 15, 2011
| Never ever thought I would lead this climb. At 5'2", it's tough for me to reach the really great horizontal above the slick slab. But, somehow, I manage to get my little fingers onto something and then I just pull, clip the pin and go. |
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