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Rattletale Wall
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Chasin' the Lizard T 
Rattletale T 

Rattletale 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,820
Submitted By: Eric Fjellanger on Jul 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 of Rattletale

Description 

This is one of Index's finest hand cracks and well worth the approach hike. Has three short, but athletic, pitches.

P1: Start on some broken face cracks trending up and left to a nice right-facing corner. Crux is low in the corner. End at large ledge.

P2: Prominent hand crack in a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Crack which starts as perfect hands and finishes as wide hands (or layback).

P3: Deep corner slot, also right-facing, with two cracks. You can do a wide stem and jam the thinner, right crack. The crack widens at the top, but you can reach in deep for hand jams. The top is an incut edge, bordering on the forest.

Rappel from a tree about 20 feet left of the route. A single rap with double 60-m will reach the ground. (Or, walk a short distance up and left to get to the classic Zipper pitch.)


Location 

At Rattletale Wall. Belay stations are fixed slings on natural features. Pitches are short and can be linked, one 60m rope is enough for rappelling.


Protection 

A set of nuts and cams, with double or triple hand-size (i.e. #2 and #3 C4 Camalots).



Photos of Rattletale Slideshow Add Photo
Lisa following pitch 2 of Rattletale
Lisa following pitch 2 of Rattletale
Pitch 3 of Rattletale (10b).
Pitch 3 of Rattletale (10b).
Ryan on the second pitch of Rattletale
Ryan on the second pitch of Rattletale
Fletch on pitch 2 of RattleTale
Fletch on pitch 2 of RattleTale
Splitter hands on pitch 2.
Splitter hands on pitch 2.
Lisa leading Pitch 3, RattleTale. This route is uber awesome crack climbing! It may be 10B in a few spots, but there is always a great jam, and you can totally sew it up. I'm just barely a 5.9 Index climber and I can lead all the pitches, give or take a hang or two. It deserves much more traffic than it gets. It's safer than Godzilla, and much better climbing.
Lisa leading Pitch 3, RattleTale. This route is ub...
Comments on Rattletale Add Comment
Show which comments —
By dcramer
Jul 14, 2008

Just an FYI: the sizes he refers to are for Camelots.

By Eric Fjellanger
Jul 15, 2008

Thanks, good point, I've updated the description.

By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Feb 20, 2009

Someone added belay stations at the top of pitches 1 & 2.

By TM Miller
Jun 12, 2009

Great route! Cheers to whoever put the P1 and P2 anchors in - not so sure how long the fin/boulder with slings on P1 and the sling covered bush on P2 would have supported the route's well-deserved popularity.

By Colin Bartholomew
From: WASHINGTON
Jun 19, 2010

Thanks for the stations. Uber classic.

By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 8, 2010

This route is well worth seeking out. P2 is pure, burly crack climbing at its finest. P3 is a fun stemming/crack finish (if you've got any gas left in the tank for overhanging crack, that is.) P2 uses only #2's and #3's(though you can plug a #4 in to protect the exit onto the dirty ledge).