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Rattletale Wall
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Chasin' the Lizard 
Rattletale 

Rattletale 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b

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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Eric Fjellanger on Jul 14, 2008

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Splitter hands on pitch 2.

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Description 

This is one of Index's finest hand cracks and well worth the approach hike.

Rattletale climbs an indistinct corner in one pitch to reach the base of the prominent hand crack in a right-leaning corner. Pitch 2 climbs the crack which ranges from perfect hands to just barely wider. The third pitch climbs a slightly overhanging corner in a bay to reach the top of the cliff. Toprope the offwidth to the left for bonus points.


Location 

At Rattletale Wall. Belay stations are fixed slings on natural features. Pitches are short and can be linked, one 60m rope is enough for rappelling.


Protection 

A set of nuts and cams, with double or triple hand-size (i.e. #2 and #3 C4 Camalots).



Photos of Rattletale Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 3 of Rattletale (10b).

Pitch 3 of Rattletale (10b).
Ryan on the second pitch of Rattletale

Ryan on the second pitch of Rattletale
Pitch 3 of Rattletale

BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 of Rattletale
Fletch on pitch 2 of RattleTale

Fletch on pitch 2 of RattleTale
Lisa following pitch 2 Rattle Tale

Lisa following pitch 2 Rattle Tale
Lisa leading Pitch 3, RattleTale. This route is uber awesome crack climbing! It may be 10B in a few spots, but there is always a great jam, and you can totally sew it up. I'm just barely a 5.9 Index climber and I can lead all the pitches, give or take a hang or two. It deserves much more traffic than it gets. It's safer than Godzilla, and much better climbing.

Lisa leading Pitch 3, RattleTale. This route is ub...

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By dcramer
Jul 14, 2008

Just an FYI: the sizes he refers to are for Camelots.

By Eric Fjellanger
Jul 15, 2008

Thanks, good point, I've updated the description.

By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Feb 20, 2009

Someone added belay stations at the top of pitches 1 & 2.

By Hans Miller
Jun 12, 2009

Great route! Cheers to whoever put the P1 and P2 anchors in - not so sure how long the fin/boulder with slings on P1 and the sling covered bush on P2 would have supported the route's well-deserved popularity.

By Colin Bartholomew
From: WASHINGTON
Jun 19, 2010

Thanks for the stations. Uber classic.

By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 8, 2010

This route is well worth seeking out. P2 is pure, burly crack climbing at its finest. P3 is a fun stemming/crack finish (if you've got any gas left in the tank for overhanging crack, that is.) P2 uses only #2's and #3's(though you can plug a #4 in to protect the exit onto the dirty ledge).