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Rattletale
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
FA: | Dave Anderson, Cal Folsom, and Phil McCrudden |
Page Views: | 26,521 total · 128/month |
Shared By: | Eric Fjellanger on Jul 14, 2008 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Due to a large rockfall event, Private Idaho and Mossquito are not accessible from the west end (the usual approach). For these areas, you can still use the east approach that forks off right at Midnite boulder.
Routes affected are those on Mossquito.
Routes affected are those on Mossquito.
Description
This is one of Index's finest hand cracks and well worth the approach hike. Has three short, but athletic, pitches.
P1: Start on some broken face cracks trending up and left to a nice right-facing corner. Crux is low in the corner. End at large ledge.
P2: Prominent hand crack in a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Crack which starts as perfect hands and finishes as wide hands (or layback).
P3: Deep corner slot, also right-facing, with two cracks. You can do a wide stem and jam the thinner, right crack. The crack widens at the top, but you can reach in deep for hand jams. The top is an incut edge, bordering on the forest.
Lower from the P3 bolted anchor and have your follower clean the anchor and then lower back to the P2 bolted anchor. A single rap with double 60-m will reach the ground. (Or, walk a short distance up and left to get to the classic Zipper pitch.)
P1: Start on some broken face cracks trending up and left to a nice right-facing corner. Crux is low in the corner. End at large ledge.
P2: Prominent hand crack in a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Crack which starts as perfect hands and finishes as wide hands (or layback).
P3: Deep corner slot, also right-facing, with two cracks. You can do a wide stem and jam the thinner, right crack. The crack widens at the top, but you can reach in deep for hand jams. The top is an incut edge, bordering on the forest.
Lower from the P3 bolted anchor and have your follower clean the anchor and then lower back to the P2 bolted anchor. A single rap with double 60-m will reach the ground. (Or, walk a short distance up and left to get to the classic Zipper pitch.)
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