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Rat's Nest 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,774
Submitted By: Dan Mottinger on Mar 6, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: The route.
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Heading north from the climbers' trail junction with the cliff locate a crack with a pocket/ hole a few moves off the deck. The first move is tricky to figure out but after that you climb up through the pocket and crack with a great nut placement at the top of the first crack. Pick your own line from here, with many variations possible. The last move off the ledge to the top is a face move to the bolts.


Nuts, cams to #3 or 4, Hexes, slings to set up anchor. There are bolts on top.

Photos of Rat's Nest Slideshow Add Photo
The climber is Rob Eschen and the photographer is Adam Goudy.
The climber is Rob Eschen and the photographer is ...
Mark stepping out of the rat's nest.
Mark stepping out of the rat's nest.
The first move (start) of Rat's nest.
BETA PHOTO: The first move (start) of Rat's nest.
The namesake for his route. For me the crux was just a bit higher.
BETA PHOTO: The namesake for his route. For me the crux was ju...
Comments on Rat's Nest Add Comment
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By Sean O'Dell
Jun 7, 2002

A lot more fun than the name suggests. Nice combination of crack, layback, and face techniques. Once gaining the first big ledge above the Rat's Nest, heading directly up the face seems easier than following the crack (which becomes rather off-widthy for a stretch) but both are entertaining.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 9, 2005

It was a great route, and easy to top rope. Three anchors right at the top. It was really fun, a good confidence builder. Use the crack that is right above the Rat's Nest to make a good move to get above it.

By Kyle P.
From: Lander, WY
Nov 22, 2007

Fun sequences to get to jugs. Great way to kick off in the 5.8-5.9 range.

By Steve Knapp
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Mar 21, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I enjoyed this climb on toprope. First move is tough for shorter people, but I am just tall enough (6'2") to reach the rats nest from the ground. I followed the crack all the way, but you can move onto the face as well. If you go all the way onto the rim, the last move is sweet.

By Marc Stuive
From: Parker, Co
Jun 21, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Great climb, with great holds. The first move seems to be the crux. Fun and enjoyable.

By Matt Pierce
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Climbed today as a TR, the route is in great shape, the bolts are in great shape as well.