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Rat's Alley 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kenny Hummel, Stanley Todd, 1986
Page Views: 167
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Aug 24, 2008
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Rat's Alley

Description 

This climb is worth doing if you're looking for a nice 5.7 trad climb in this area. It has really cleaned up over the years. Follow the crack for about 30 ft to a stance, then pass the wider section to reach a very thick flake to the left of the shuts.


Location 

Climb up to a ledge to reach the corner about 20 ft to the right of Total E Clips.


Protection 

Larger gear. Bring a few 3-4" pieces. There's also a few spots for 2" pieces. A #5 Camalot will also fit for the moves off of the stance in the middle of the climb. Shuts.



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By attila
May 2, 2010

Take a couple of big hexes and medium-large to large cams. An OK route.