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Rational Expectation 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John Hymer?
Season: Summer
Page Views: 285
Submitted By: Dan Carter on Sep 24, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Rational Expectations is the route with the rope o...

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Description 

This one also had not been climbed in a while and was pretty dirty until I cleaned it off. It doesn't get much attention. Bouldery start up to slopey ledge and easy slab to the roof. The clip at the roof is easy to get to and clip but the moves over the roof are the crux. Pretty reachy and powerful but cool moves once you figure out the beta. John Hymer bolted this route and probably got the FA as well.


Location 

This route is located to the right of the Corner route, underneath a large roof.


Protection 

All bolts and anchors at the top



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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Good for you Dan, getting out, climbing and cleaning some of the more obscure tunnel routes!

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

I broke a right hand crimp that I initially used to pull over the roof to get to the jug. New beta I ended up working out involved dynoing from the right sloper and left crimp directly to the jug. My taller climbing partner was able to keep his feet on the lower bulge and keep from cutting. Hard to grade since it's kinda a one move wonder, but I don't think it's any harder even with the breakage than other tunnel 12b's (HIVD, Blue Velvet). Of course these would probably be 12c at other areas throughout the state.

By Garrett Canter
Apr 13, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Disturbing, I used that same beta when I realized the right hand crimp was no longer there. Keeping the feet from cutting was key for me.