Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete, The 
Blue Velvet 
Cliff Nazi 
cracker jack 
El Nino 
Pillar of Pummel 
Rational Expectation 
Roof, The 
Side Straddle Hop 
Warm Up 

Rational Expectation 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John Hymer?
Season: Summer
Page Views: 285
Submitted By: Dan Carter on Sep 24, 2012
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Rational Expectations is the route with the rope o...

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View


This one also had not been climbed in a while and was pretty dirty until I cleaned it off. It doesn't get much attention. Bouldery start up to slopey ledge and easy slab to the roof. The clip at the roof is easy to get to and clip but the moves over the roof are the crux. Pretty reachy and powerful but cool moves once you figure out the beta. John Hymer bolted this route and probably got the FA as well.


This route is located to the right of the Corner route, underneath a large roof.


All bolts and anchors at the top

Comments on Rational Expectation Add Comment
Show which comments
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Good for you Dan, getting out, climbing and cleaning some of the more obscure tunnel routes!

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

I broke a right hand crimp that I initially used to pull over the roof to get to the jug. New beta I ended up working out involved dynoing from the right sloper and left crimp directly to the jug. My taller climbing partner was able to keep his feet on the lower bulge and keep from cutting. Hard to grade since it's kinda a one move wonder, but I don't think it's any harder even with the breakage than other tunnel 12b's (HIVD, Blue Velvet). Of course these would probably be 12c at other areas throughout the state.

By Garrett Canter
Apr 13, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Disturbing, I used that same beta when I realized the right hand crimp was no longer there. Keeping the feet from cutting was key for me.