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Head up a crack, pass a tree into a left-facing corner beneath a big roof. Place a couple of pieces in the lip, then reach up to the hidden hold and stem over the roof. Jamming skills useful here. The roof looks hard but is actually not so bad if you get the sequence right. Bolt anchor at the top with rings.
Take the Moses Spring trail from the parking lot, and turn right at the Tourist Trap sign; scramble down and then back up. Last year a lot of work was done in this area and there are new stone steps. There is a tree near the base which makes a good belay anchor.
Descend by rappel.
The books say pro to 4-5", but #2 / 0.75 camalots fit in the lip just fine. Perhaps some mid-sized nuts if you really want to sew it up. Long sling for the tree.
|By aaron hope|
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Jan 9, 2011
Great climb! I didn't believe this roof would go at 5.7 until I committed to the moves. That jug above the roof is key. With some perfect jams and smearing on the right, just go for it. #2 BD in the roof protects perfectly. Rock is solid here.