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 ADVANCED
The Dungeon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
New Beginnings  T 
Rat Dance T 
Ride Around the Block T 
Soaked in Sin T 
Tanuki T 
Uncertainty Principle , The T 
Zed's Dead T 

Rat Dance 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Dustin Dyer, Todd Bol
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: tbol on Sep 7, 2013

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Dustin on the first lead.
Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

We didn't think anyone had climbed this route. So I am putting it on here because it was quite fun and not a bad warm-up. If someone has done this before, please correct me on the FA info.

Begin below a hand crack just left of Ride Around The Block. Broken and somewhat wide terrain just left of the prominent chimney takes you to the hand crack. Climb the hand crack until it becomes easy to angle slightly left to a right-facing corner. Follow the corner for a few moves. Next, head up and right towards the tree belay placing three or four small pieces. This pitch is quite fun and has some satisfactory gear tinkering.


Location 

This is at the bottom of the West side. It is the second route on as you head uphill towards the main cragging.


Protection 

Varied gear up to a #4 Camalot. The climb has somewhat spicy gear but definitely adequate if you are diligent. This climb shares the tree anchor with Ride Around The Block.



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