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Well, we just walked up to this one. I remember the move to the first bolt went with a pink tricam for pro. On one go Johnny popped and the piece popped sending him into my lap. Gear got us through a small roof to the belay. After I got a bolt in on the second pitch, Johnny ran it out to a drill stance to put in a 5/16 drivin and broke the bit. He managed to change out to our 3/8 inch bit and proceeded to break it too. In an amazing feat of courage (or stupidity) he ran it out up the crackley knobs to the top.
I guess the second pitch has been retro'd...good show!